Yum or yuck? Elaichi mousse and other contemporary twists on Diwali sweets

Every Diwali, chefs add more desserts to the tussle between traditional mithai and modern sweets. (Representational image: Aditya Joshi via Unsplash)

Normal is boring and a bit of innovation never hurts, we are told. Gulab jamun parfait and Ras malai tres leche have gained in popularity, we are told (mostly by Instagram and TikTok chefs).

But is a spin on the traditional always welcome? In novel versus traditional, does the new typically win because of its novelty factor?

As a popular judge on Masterchef Australia used to say, don't mess with a classic unless you can make it better.

Here's looking at those festive boxes of ladoos and Kaju katli with a twist.

For better or worse

The sweet, crumbly motichoor ladoo that once heralded festive occasions, especially Diwali, for many of us, only makes a guest appearance nowadays.

Food Historian K.T. Achaya in his book, ‘A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food’, describes the motichoor ladoo thus: "A sphere of fine globules (moti=pearls) of fried besan held together with thickened sugar syrup.”

Traditionally made with gram flour (besan), ghee, sugar, and food colouring (saffron is too mild to give it that the bright orange colour unaided), of late chefs have started experimenting even with this once ubiquitous mithai.

There are, for example, Motichoor ladoos with whipped cream and motichoor cookies. The former marketed to those who prefer to mask the flavour of ghee with cream, and the latter... perhaps a gateway to trick Gen Alpha into trying something Indian, something sugar- and ghee-laden.

Recipes to use left-over motichoor ladoos to make kheer? Acceptable. But then, when are motichoor ladoos ever left-over? Not in my home for sure.

But a Motichoor cheesecake? I draw the line at that. Here's the description of it that I came across: creamy mixture of mango pulp, cream cheese, eggs and sugar poured over motichoor ladoos, layered over a freshly baked fudgy, crumbly brownie.

Ladoos (Photo: Prchi Palwe via Unsplash)

Lost in translation

Elaichi or cardamom is a great spice used as a flavouring agent in Indian sweets, especially those made with milk. It imparts intense flavour, and is known to aid digestion. No longer are we satisfied adding this raw, however. We must elevate this too.

Motichoor ladoo with elaichi mousse is actually a thing. The savoury biscuit base of this jar dessert, cuts through the intense sweetness of the ladoos to create a perfect flavour and textural balance, I am told. Why is the poor ladoo stuffed into a jar? Looks good as it is. And where is the need to cut the sweetness of ladoos? Ladoos are meant to be sweet, right?

(Photo: Mohammad Amiri via Unsplash)

Nothing has been spared

Faced with the eternal question: chocolates or mithai? Think of the dessert chef who first thought of chocolate burfi and shrikhand-filled chocolates.

Chocolate filled with kaju barfi or shrikhand are an absolute no-no for me. An identity crisis for the sweets, I say. Why should they be sandwiched between oodles of chocolate?

It doesn't stop there, of course - I also came across besan ladoos drizzled with molten chocolate on one menu. Hard as it is, try to imagine the firm-to-touch but melt-in-mouth texture of besan ladoos covered in non-descript chocolate squiggles. A match made in dessert hell.

And flattening besan ladoos into discs to serve them with Amrakhand mousse? I am heartbroken.

Leave my kaju katli alone. A Paan kaju katli does not entice me. I want my rich and dense cashew flavours, unadulterated.

(Photo: Iso Topon via Unsplash)

Health(ier) options

Replacing refined flour with wheat flour or creating healthier alternatives, is acceptable. Gur instead of refined sugar, or using dates or honey. Sweets made using anjeer or figs. Bravo.

Using natural sweeteners and having sugar-free options work, but just wanting to give a modern twist to classics for the sake of it and ruining their original flavours, or masking those, is unpardonable.

For those with allergies, health concerns, there is enough and more to choose from. Vegan Ragi walnut ladoo? Go for it.

Pair them right

If you want to step out of the ordinary and try modern mithai, all ye dessert lovers, go for coffee almond barfi maybe or an orange blossom peda. Or the Cherimoya Mawa where custard apple meets khoya, and at least the flavour profiles don't clash.

For me, Diwali comes once a year and I look forward to my ‘regular and unimaginative’ sweet indulgences. Bring on the simple Ladoos, kaju katlis and khoya barfis, I am ready. After all Diwali is all about traditions.