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100 not out: Cocktails that make our taste buds sing over a century after they were first mixed

Taste over technique, fewer ingredients, and great stories are just some of the reasons why classic cocktails reign supreme even today.

January 08, 2022 / 18:31 IST
Bartender Dante Agnelli  at Harry's Bar in Paris, where the Bloody Mary is said to have been invented in 1921. (AP Photo/Rafael Yaghobzadeh)

Bartender Dante Agnelli at Harry's Bar in Paris, where the Bloody Mary is said to have been invented in 1921. (AP Photo/Rafael Yaghobzadeh)

Bloody Mary recently turned 100. But the tomato juice-vodka drink isn't the only centurion to have withstood the test of time.

Simple to make, often with few ingredients, and with great stories behind them, several classic cocktails reign supreme even today.

“There are a lot of vintage classics that have stayed and never budged like Bloody Mary and some that waned in popularity, but have made a comeback - Old Fashioned and Negroni. Others, have evolved since inception and are popular in all their forms - like the Martini,” says, Shatbhi Basu, mixologist, author and consultant.

Taste was key when the classics were invented, and that’s why these were sought after. Celebrated bartender Yangdup Lama says, “These cocktails are great, purely because these were the earlier inventions and followed taste, not technique, so much. The creators focused on taste above everything else. Thus, the frail tang cocktails became the iconic classics and stood the test of time.”

While the originals exist in their pure form and are still revered, alcohol aficionados have also welcomed these with a bit of reinvention. Similar ingredients with different flavours can be swapped or the presentation revved up. With golden ratios and balanced applications, using modern flavours, bartenders are serving these in a new avatar.

Sherine John, bartender, Tresind, says, “Classic cocktails are the first step and inspiration for bartenders. These have stories about their creation and bartenders are encouraged to recreate these. Yet, we do twist the classics; for example, an Old Fashioned served with wood smoke, flavoured Negroni and Manhattan.”

Bloody Mary

Harry’s Bar in Paris celebrated Bloody Mary’s 100th birthday in December 2021.  It is said that the bar's legendary bartender Fernand Petiot invented this drink, and the recipe was first published in a book called “Harry’s ABC of Cocktails” in 1921. Another bartender, Dante Agnelli, later demonstrated the technique for making this, adding, salt and pepper, Tabasco sauce, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, vodka and tomato juice. Another theory attributes its name to Mary I, the Tudor queen, as she was referred to as ‘Bloody Mary’.

While purists may not want their classics to be tampered with, people are always looking for innovation, and bartenders love to experiment.

Nilesh Patel, beverage head (west), Impresario Handmade Restaurants, says, “Classic cocktails are the theoretical underpinning of how to make a good-well-balanced cocktail. Our take on the Bloody Mary is called 'Mars Attack', where the ingredients are carefully chosen and paired accordingly. These were never used in a Bloody Mary before, which makes ours more appealing.”

Bloody Mary

Manhattan

Theories abound regarding the origin of the Manhattan. Most believe that in the early 1880s, Dr Iain Marshall invented this for a party at the Manhattan Club in New York City. Others think that a man called ‘Black’ invented the cocktail at the Hoffman House in New York City. Whichever version one wants to accept, The Manhattan Club still lays claim to the recipe. Bartenders across the world continue to serve this cocktail, and it is extremely popular.

Rini Chatterjee, founder, Canary Yellow Media, says, “I am a cocktail enthusiast, but I am also old-school. I'd pick a classic cocktail over a gimmicky (spare me the foams!) one any day. One of my favourites is the Manhattan. With so many new signature drinks, no traditional bar can ever go without this slice of history and bittersweet nostalgia. It’s wonderful to see how this cocktail that was invented in the late 1800s, still has a steady fan- base, centuries later. I like to use the Jim Beams Bourbon Black to make my Manhattan at home.”

Some like it with a twist too. Basu says, “I like to twist a few classics to appeal to a wider range of palates. In their original form, it is the bar community that loves them more than others.” An Apricot Manhattan, is what she prefers to create.

Lama, whose favourite is the Manhattan, says: “What I do to classics, is add a little touch of local flavours. My favourite is a Manhattan straight up with a touch of home-made vermouth, and some citrus oils.”

Shatbhi Basu Shatbhi Basu

Negroni

There's more than one story about how this cocktail got its name. It is said that the famed Count Camillo Negroni of Florence, who during the 1920s used to frequent the celebrated Caffè Casoni in Florence, one day asked the barman to add a new ingredient to the cocktail. The new ingredient was gin, and the Negroni was born.

Tradition is back and the Negroni is riding the crest, delighting its devotees even today. Citrus Twisted Negroni, to take the edge off the rather power-packed Campari, is how Shatbhi suggests this be served.

Negroni cocktail

Tom Collins

A base spirit, citrus, and a sweetener; shake all, strain into a tall glass over ice, then add a carbonated beverage for bubbles. That’s what a simple Tom Collins is all about.

Tom Collins has a long and complex history dating back to the 1800s. It is believed that one John Collins, a head waiter at Limmer’s Old House in Mayfair, created this drink in the 1860s. A recipe featured in The Steward and Barkeep’s Manual (1869) specified the use of Old Tom gin, which is considered to be one of the reasons for the first half of the name.

Variations of the drink abound today. For instance, some bartenders pair a delicate vanilla-forward bison grass vodka with pear brandy, cider, fresh lemon juice and honey syrup.

Tom Collins

Hot Toddy

This classic cocktail is for those who wish to enjoy hot whisky in cold weather. A full-bodied bourbon that is extra-aged and more premium with an enhanced level of elegance and refinement adds to the flavour of this cocktail.

The cocktail’s origins are unknown, but it is an old drink, invented in Scotland around the 1700s.The basic Hot Toddy recipe consists of bourbon, honey, hot water and lemon. The country’s Scotch, had a harsh smoky flavour that did not appeal to some women, so a sweeter-tasting alternative was introduced for them.

When it comes to vintage cocktails, perhaps it is best not to say let bygones be bygones.

Hot toddy Hot toddy

Mini Ribeiro
first published: Jan 8, 2022 06:11 pm

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