The seaplane hovers over the crystalline waters ranging in hues from a soulful cyan to a pretty periwinkle. Soon white-gold sands with a turquoise trim, a burnished sun and lush palm trees veer into view through the plane’s window.
I’m in Maldives, a captivating conglomerate of 1,200 coral islands located 700 km southwest of Sri Lanka, in the Laccadive Sea, forming 26 ring reefs called 'faru' in the Maldivian language Dhivehi. I’m excited to island hop across some of its most stunning spots, sample delicious local cuisine and savour immersive cultural experiences.
But first, a thrilling cruise. No sooner do I disembark at Velana International Airport in capital city Male than I’m whisked off in a speedboat to my first port of call — Oblu Select Sangeli, a five-star resort located on Sangeli Island at the north-western tip of Malé Atoll. Fringed by dazzling lagoons and pristine white sand that lead to quaint beach villas, it is picture postcard turf. The resort comprises two islands — Sangeli and on the other end, the smaller One Banyan. Although Sangeli itself is a natural island, One Banyan is an artificial one created by importing tons of sand, I’m informed, the two waterbodies interconnected by a string of water villas anchored in the lagoon.
Sangeli is unimaginably tranquil. My villa opens out to a cinematic vista — the turquoise lagoons of the Island. Sitting on the edge of the decking at the back of my villa, feet dangling just a meter above the water, I soak in the soundscape of waves lapping against the rungs of the ladder that lead to the sea. Schools of fish swim past gracefully, their scales shimmering in the sun.
In the evening, from the decking of my overwater villa, sundowner in hand, I gaze out at the horizon. As the sun plunges into the ocean, I hear a resounding splash. Spinner dolphins! Jumping and twirling like artists in a synchronised swimming act. Indeed, one of the greatest joys of the Maldives are its athletic spinner dolphins. They earn their names for their antics: in the late afternoon, as they make their way out of the lagoons and into the deep ocean to hunt, they leap into the air to spin playfully. Friendly that they are, the fat fellows will happily follow your boat, as they did mine.
One of the greatest joys of being in Maldives is to enjoy the sight of its abundant aquatic life. From several species of dolphins, including Spinners, Bottle Nosed dolphins and pilot whales, to the marine Big Five: manta and eagle rays, sea turtles, dolphins and sharks, including whale sharks, call the island their home. There’s all manner of tropical ocean fish, crustaceans, turtles, sharks, swordfish, porpoises as well as the most dazzling coral reefs.
It helps that Oblu Select’s service is unobtrusive and informed. And the valet aims to please. So from enjoying speedboat cruises to stargazing in the middle of the Indian Ocean on the roof of a wooden dhoni, I was able to view a scintillating array of underwater flora and fauna in a mind boggling range of colours.
Much of that oceanic bounty also finds its way to the dining table. The buffet at The Courtyard, Varu’s all day dining is a gastronomic feast — all manner of fish, seafood including fresh mussels, squids, prawns, scallop, octopus and more. For grass eaters there are coconut-spiked dishes, fresh tropical fruit as well as Indian curries and breads. The ocean-fronted Just Grill or Just Wok restaurant offers Asian delicacies including grills and barbeques whose flavors still dance on my palate.
Three days pass by in a blur and before I know it, it’s time to bid a reluctant adieu to this haven. My next port of call — Varu by Atmosphere resort, also part of the same hotel chain — thankfully, is no less breathtaking. Another thrilling speedboat ride later we pull up to Varu island to the sound of staff beating rhythmic boduberu drums and blowing conch shells to signal our arrival. Located on the north-west edge of Malé Atoll, Varu’s design reflects local heritage fused with signature Maldivian-style design elements. Even the name 'Varu', meaning strength, resilience and life in abundance, my butler informs me, is derived from Dhivehi.
With the soft sandy beach and a picturesque lagoon just a few steps away, I have a daily rendezvous with nature from the comfort of my villa that also features a lavishly furnished master bedroom, a living room with a pantry, and a luxurious bathroom. The diminutive Varu packs a punch when it comes to dining with five restaurants. All-day dining Lime & Chili serves up a scrumptious smorgasbord and live cooking stations three times a day. Kaagé, the island nation’s first fine dining Maldivian restaurant showcases traditional Maldivian cuisine with a modern twist. I enjoy tasty local treats here with the usher tying a mundu (local sarong) around my waist before I dug into a seven-course meal featuring the award-winning chef’s stellar dishes.
However, my favorite is Nu, an overwater specialty restaurant serving Mediterranean seafood. Done up in hues of blue, it offers sweeping ocean views. I’m torn between whether to enjoy my food or stare at the handsome eatery. I end up doing both. After savouring a multiple-course meal (grilled seabass and sautéed veggies washed down with a coconut frappe), I stroll around its deck soaking in the ocean’s 50 shades of blue.
On the last day of my stay, a facial and massage at the Elena Spa followed with the therapist rubbing my aches and pains away as I gazed at the colourful fish cavorting in the ocean below through the glass of my spa bed nudged me to drift off to sleep, hoping to not wake up from this dream.
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