Small-batch wines, ruin bars, night-time river cruise and reasons to go it alone in Budapest

Parlamento Budapest, the Hungarian Parliament at night. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

If you ask me to pick my favourite city in Europe, it will probably be Berlin. That answer might change if I need to make a recommendation for a solo traveller. It’s Budapest that wins my vote as a haven for solo travellers. The river Danube splits the city into its two distinct hearts (Buda and Pest) that beat as one. This is a city of a thousand faces and, as I discovered, there’s no better way to discover this city than to pound Budapest’s sidewalks.

Happy cruisin’

Cruising down the Danube river, flanked by the Budapest Parliament on one side. (Photo: Tudor Stanica via Unsplash)

The first thing I did after I arrived in Budapest was sail down the Danube river. If you’re on a tight schedule, this is probably the best way to appreciate the city’s striking landmarks and iconic bridges. Budapest looks prettier at night; if you have time for just one cruise, wait for the sun to go down. The Hungarian Parliament (Parlamento Budapest) is one of the riverfront’s most instantly recognizable buildings and puts on quite a show in the dark in its illuminated avatar. Get up close with Budapest’s instantly recognizable Chain Bridge which dates to 1849.

Budapest's Chain Bridge, which dates to 1849. (Photo: Weronika Romanowska via Unsplash)

The Grand Budapest Hotel

In 1896, when the Grand Royal hotel (with its distinctive French renaissance design-language) debuted to coincide with Budapest’s Millennium Exhibition, it was Europe’s most imposing hotel. The sweeping views from the atrium reminded me of some of the scenes from The Grand Budapest Hotel which won the Academy Award for Best Production Design (and a total of four Oscars). The hotel’s fortunes faded after World War I and suffered heavy damages during World War II. It reopened as the Corinthia Hotel in the 2010s. It helped that I could come back to this lap of luxury each night after a frenetic day in the city.

Corinthia Hotel, Budapest. (Photo via Wikimedia Commons)

Keep on walking

St. Stephen's church, Budapest. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

There’s no better way to explore this city than by foot. Walking tours (like the ones organised by www.freetour.com) are not just a great way to uncover the city’s historical sights but also a great platform to meet fellow solo travellers from across the world. I met a bunch of Israeli travellers during my walking tour who then walked me to Budapest’s charming Jewish quarter.

Dohány Street Synagogue, Budapest. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

The Dohány Street Synagogue (built in a revival style with Byzantine and Gothic design influences) was the highlight of that detour. My walking tour led me through some of the city’s most historic streets and past St. Stephen's. Completed in 1905 with a Neo-classical design, this church houses one of the country’s most treasured relics. Built in honour of Saint Stephen I, the incorruptible, Hungary’s first king, this church’s reliquary houses his right hand. The large square around the church features local stores and quaint cafes — the perfect pit-stop on a sunny day.

Take in the views from Citadella

The local word for citadel, this unique fortification, that was built as a symbol of power on Gellert Hill by the Hapsburg dynasty in the 1850s has come to symbolise liberation and freedom. Used as a strategic location by the Nazis and then later by the Soviets to quell the Hungarian uprising in 1956, this UNESCO World heritage is not just steeped in history. It offers stunning 360-degree panoramas of the city.

Soak in Budapest’s historic baths

The bath at the Corinthia hotel, Budapest. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

The city became one of Europe’s spa capitals in the late 19th century, but it was the Romans who discovered the city’s miraculous waters centuries ago. The Ottoman Turks ushered in Budapest’s bath culture almost five hundred years ago. For as low as Rs 3,500 (for a daily pass) you can soak in one of the city’s popular public baths like Szechenyi (www.szechenyibath.com) that provides the perfect antidote to Budapest’s nightlife. This Neo-baroque complex was built in 1913 and features 18 pools. If you’d like something more intimate and luxurious, there’s the restored, 19th Century pool at the Corinthia Budapest with a well-appointed spa.

Wine and dine in the old city

Hungarian Goulash. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Hungary’s fine wines are one of the country’s best kept secrets. With 22 wine regions (that’s more than France) producing exquisite small-batch wines, the country’s best wine doesn't leave Budapest. The Halászbástya restaurant located in the Fisherman’s Bastion region in Buda offers great views and serves Hungarian signatures like the Hortobágyi crêpes stuffed with veal. Don't leave the country without sampling the country’s most popular broth – the Goulash.  Make time to check out the Central Market Hall, where locals stop for daily supplies and fresh produce. It’s where you can stock up on the city’s finest gourmet souvenirs. Hungarian sausages, Paprika, Palinka (the country’s most popular spirit) and wines figure high on that list.

The view from Fisherman's Bastion. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Ruin bars – the city’s ultimate solo magnet

Kuplung Ruin Bar. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Szimpla Kert is widely acknowledged to be the catalyst of one Budapest’s most unique nightlife phenomena – the ruin bar. This trend of converting abandoned buildings or repurposing old workshops) into chic bars went from a cult movement in the aughts to a mainstream nightlife trend in the 2010s. The city’s ruin bars are a melting pot of locals, large groups and solo travellers who share local beers, small plates and conversations in an eclectic setting. If I had to pick one ruin bar, it would be Kuplung that’s open round the clock.

Ride the funicular to Castle hill

Mathias Church, Budapest. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Many walking tours or solo treks end up at Castle Hill; mine did. The funicular is a great way to ride up this medieval hilltop district. It’s home to quite a few attractions and has been a playground for the Hungarian royalty. The Mathias Church embellished with gorgeous local tiles has been a venue for numerous coronations. It’s just around the corner from Sandor Palace, the official residence of the President. Panoramic views are a given from Fisherman’s Bastion where local fishermen once traded their catch.

The ubiquitous Budapest tram. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)