Onam Sadhya: Growing popularity equals greater choices across cities and towns

In terms of flavour, the Onam Sadhya covers sweet, salty, sour and spicy.

Onam is one of the most popular Hindu festivals in Kerala (along with Vishu and Thiruvathira). According to popular belief, King Mahabali returns to Kerala to visit his people during the 10 days of celebration.

Writer Sashibooshan says that it's been centuries since Onam went beyond religion. A harvest festival, Onam is celebrated during the month of ‘Chingam’ when paddy is harvested. Chingam is the first month in the Malayalam calendar. In 1961, the Kerala government decided to celebrate Onam as a ‘national festival’.

Apart from the intricate Atthapookalam (floral rangoli) and Ona kodi (new clothes), Sadhya, or the elaborate feast, is an integral part of the celebrations. In terms of flavour, the Onam Sadhya covers sweet, salty, sour and spicy, and contains all the rasas of Ayurveda- Madhur, Amla, Lavana, Katu, Tikta and Kashaya, thus making it the perfect meal.

Nitin and Deepa Sumitran, the home chef duo of Appam Stories, Mumbai, say, “The most important part of Onam is the Sadhya, a vegetarian meal that Malayalees either make at home or partake at a friend’s place or order from Kerala restaurants... (It is also) a means of showing off Kerala’s food and culture to non-Malayalees.”

Sadya goes national

Today, you can get good Sadya outside Kerala too.

Chef Marina Balakrishnan, founder, Oottupura, Mumbai, says, "There has been a huge demand for the Sadhya owing to the fact that regional cuisines are gaining popularity. Also, Keralites who live out of Kerala find comfort and joy in the festivities. Experiencing a Sadhya takes them back to their childhood memories.”

Balakrishnan, whose Instagram account @thatthalasserygirl has over 56,000 followers, is serving an Ona Sadhya with 27 dishes this year.

Ishani Priyadarshini Sinha, founder and chef, SurFiré, the Coastal Café, Kolkata, says: “We opened in 2018 and served our first Sadya on Onam. Sadya was not common then, and Malayalee Samajams would cater only to members."

They've been sold out on Onam every year since. Sinha adds that during the Covid years, they extended their Sadya offering to three days and saw an uptick in the number Malayalee diners who couldn’t go home and yet wanted to experience a Sadhya.

"The last two years saw 75 percent Malayalee foodies and 25 percent enthusiastic locals, but usually we have a 50-50 mix,” Sinha says.

Kolkata Explorers by Avijit Dhar Chowdhury has curated a walking tour about the life and culture of the South Indian community this year. The walk will end with a traditional Onam Sadhya at Hotel Swagath.

Explaining the Sadhya's growing popularity, Sumitran adds, “As Kerala is emerging as a popular tourist destination, there is greater awareness about its cuisine, and people are keen on trying it... During this time of the year, people in Mumbai and other cities look forward to Onam, as it is probably the only time when they can partake the Sadhya by home chefs, small restaurants and 5-star hotels...”

Where to get Sadhya

With Goa’s ever-evolving palate, Chef Sandeep Sreedharan of Elaa Café and Bar, Anjuna, is offering an elaborate home-style Sadhya this weekend and Sappadu, Assagao, has a Sadhya lunch on Onam.

Spice Studio, the home-style coastal restaurant at Alila Diwa Goa, with Chef Sooraj from Kerala at the helm, is going all out this Onam. Not only is an elaborate Sadhya on offer for lunch, but this will be followed by Pookalam (traditional games like Kannuketti Kalam odi and flower rangoli) and end with Thattu Kada Palaharangal (high tea with classic savouries prepared in the traditional hut - Thattu Kada).

Suveer Sodhi, general manager, Alila Diwa Goa & The Diwa Club, says, “Kerala cuisine is becoming popular and we feel we can fill that gap and offer something different at Spice Studio and are thus celebrating Onam for the first time."

Sadhyas are becoming common in smaller towns, too. Taste of Kerala & Co in Nagpur offers a Sadya and Amdavadis too can savour a Sadhya at Dravida, Hotel Fortune Select SG Highway.

Of course, there no dearth of options in the southern states. Such is the craze for Onam Sadhya that restaurants apart, Bio Basics, an organic shop, is conducting an online session, teaching food enthusiasts how to prepare a Kerala Sadhya at home.

Bengaluru-based Radhika Menon, who prepares a Sadhya at home each year, explains, “Each dish is served at different times during the meal. Food is eaten with the right hand, without cutlery and the fingers are cupped to form a ladle, thus helping to put all the chakras in motion, connecting to one’s heart and mind. Sitting on the floor cross-legged aids in digestion and the sequence of the dishes too, ensure it is a well-balanced meal, covering all nutritious aspects.”

So, roll up your sleeves and get started. Onam Ashamsakal everyone.