Influencer triggers debate after top Indian sunscreen brands fail SPF test: ‘It’s a scam’

'I have personally paid for these tests and invested over Rs 2.15 lakh to conduct this study with the sole purpose of educating fellow citizens about what they are applying on their skin,' influencer Nitin Joshi said. (Image credit: Nitin Joshi/Instagram)

A new investigation by a Noida-based influencer and founder of an influencer marketing agency has cast a spotlight on allegedly misleading SPF claims by some of India’s most popular sunscreen brands. Nitin Joshi, who has 1.6 million followers on Instagram, revealed on the platform that six out of ten top-selling sunscreens failed to deliver even half the sun protection factor (SPF) they advertise.

The findings, shared on October 19, were based on independent lab tests commissioned and personally funded by Joshi. “I have personally paid for these tests and invested over Rs 2.15 lakh to conduct this study with the sole purpose of educating fellow citizens about what they are applying on their skin,” he wrote.

Tests conducted at two government-accredited labs

Sunscreens from Lakme, Renee, Lotus, Dot & Key,  Wishcare, Deconstruct, Foxtail, Aqualogica, Dermaco, and Minimalist were tested at two Government of India–accredited laboratories — MS Clinical Research Pvt Ltd in Bengaluru and the Centre for Cruelty-Free Testing in Meerut. Both labs used in-vitro testing protocols based on ISO 24443 and COLIPA 2011 standards, which are globally accepted for non-human SPF testing.

While in-vivo testing on human subjects remains the global gold standard for determining SPF, Joshi clarified that in-vitro tests are also widely recognised as credible and effective for understanding sunscreen performance. “The intent of this video is strictly educational — to encourage awareness, informed choices, and conversations around sunscreen and skincare products,” he said. “It also aims to highlight the need for clearer specifications, standards, and gradings in categories such as skincare and sun protection in India.”

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A post shared by Nitin Joshi (@ji_nitinjoshi)

Test results reveal wide disparity between claimed and actual SPF

The lab results shared by Joshi revealed stark discrepancies between the SPF values advertised by brands and those measured under ISO 24443 in-vitro testing. Among the worst performers were Renee (claimed SPF 70+, tested SPF 12.81), WishCare (50+, 12.94), and Dot & Key (50+, 14.98) — all delivering less than one-third of their claimed protection. Lotus (50+, 16.89) and Deconstruct (55+, 17.82) also fell significantly short.

Only four brands came close to or exceeded their SPF claims. Foxtale (55+, 36.9) underperformed but remained within a tolerable range. Lakme (50+, 52.96), Minimalist (50+, 78.54), and Derma Co. (50+, 79.72) all met or exceeded expectations. Aqualogica (50+, 146.08) stood out with an exceptionally high SPF reading, which may spark questions about its formulation or testing variability.

Dermatologists raise concerns over test validity and influencer bias

As Joshi's video quickly went viral, drawing millions of views and widespread consumer engagement, it also triggered scepticism from dermatologists and industry insiders. Mumbai-based clinical dermatologist Dr Jinal Mehta questioned the independence of the campaign, commenting under Joshi’s post, “What do you have to say about the proof that this is part of a marketing campaign that some influencers have received with a brief to promote your video?”

She also pointed out that the four sunscreens that performed well in the test are owned by just two parent companies, suggesting a possible commercial bias. “In-vitro (in glass) tests are not sufficed for SPF ratings. SPF tests need to be done in-vivo (on living organisms),” she added.

Others in the skincare community echoed similar concerns, highlighting the lack of transparency in influencer-brand collaborations and the growing trend of coordinated marketing disguised as independent reviews.

A Rs 70,000-crore market with weak oversight

The controversy comes amid rapid growth in India’s Rs 70,000-crore skincare market, where many direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands rely on third-party formulators and contract manufacturers, Business Standard reported. A 2024 report by the International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group (IMARC) noted that weak regulatory oversight and white-label manufacturing practices have made SPF mislabelling a recurring issue — similar to recent sunscreen recalls in Australia, where consumer watchdog CHOICE found several products drastically underperforming.