Ex-Amrut master distiller on what it takes to make great whisky

If you have questions about the direction that Indian single malt whisky is expected to take in the coming years, then Surrinder Kumar is the right man to ask.

As master distiller at Amrut Distilleries for over three decades, Kumar was one of the vital cogs in the success of its whiskies. A graduate of the Central Food Technological Research Institute, Kumar worked on the company’s rums, brandies, and whiskies such as Prestige and MaQintosh in his initial years, had an intimate knowledge of Amrut Distilleries’ numerous warehouses and thousands of bourbon, virgin American Oak, European Oak barrels and sherry butts.

Kumar, who bagged several awards during his tenure at Amrut, including Distiller of the Year in 2011, rates the Amrut Kadhambam as among the best whiskies he helped create. “It’s a difficult choice to make among all the whiskies that were by made us, but the Kadhambam involves ex-oloroso casks, brandy casks, and then rum casks. It is a complex, but rewarding drink.” He is equally proud of Amrut’s Two Indies Rum. “My counterparts at Bacardi India loved it, and I found that highly satisfying.”

At Amrut, his schedule was exacting, but about a year and a half after he turned independent consultant, his life is no less hectic. And that’s because if you are keen on emulating the success of Amrut—and Paul John—he’d be among the first people to call on once you’ve drawn up your plans.

Made-in-India craft gin—and of late, vodka—might be in the news, but the action in the single malt space, says Kumar, is hotting up as well. Over the last eight-odd months, Kumar, who is based in Bengaluru, has travelled to several distilleries in northern India and Goa, or held online consultations with firms interested in making their own single malt.

He serves as an adviser to Piccadily distillery and Peak Spirits, which launched Kamet single malt whisky towards the end of last year, and is firming up plans with “at least four other entities” who are keen on exploring the malt whisky space. “It’s not just distilleries or individuals, you also have bottlers who are keen on getting into high-end blended whiskies and single malts,” says Kumar.

And what does he advise companies who seek him out? “So, I don’t know how many people are mentally ready for the process of making good whisky. You need vision, knowledgeable manpower, and, most of all, patience. That’s the biggest lesson from my long innings at Amrut,” says Kumar. “Whisky calls for huge investments. Your money lies blocked in warehouses, and you have to invest the money and forget about the whisky for four to five years. Not too many people want to take that route.”

How many new single malt whiskies can we expect this year? “You could have at least three launches,” Kumar says. “I’m working on a new one even as we speak.”

Kumar says that with more Indian single malts on the horizon, now would be a good time for the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) to ensure that companies follow its guidelines on what constitutes Indian whisky.

“Japan has just introduced new regulations to define Japanese whisky. Until recently, there were no legal standards in place in Japan. In India, the FSSAI has already had the regulations in place, but clearly, it needs stringent enforcement. That will help weed out the black sheep,” says Kumar.