Tracing Kanwar yatra route from Delhi: Mapping the 210-km devotional journey of Shiv Bhakts

On their way to Haridwar and Rishikesh from Delhi, there are a number of pitstops that kanwariyas follow (Image: PTI)

Every year, lakhs of saffron-clad devotees embark on a sacred pilgrimage, their chants of 'Har Har
Mahadev' echoing through the air, as they journey barefoot to holy sites like Kashi Vishwanath and countless other abodes of Lord Shiva. These devotees from across the country carry holy water from the Ganga to perform 'jalabhishek' of Shivlings during the Hindu calendar month of 'shravan'.

This year, the kanwar yatra began on July 11 with the Uttar Pradesh government expecting an estimated 60 million devotees -- including seven million women -- crossing the kanwar yatra route in the state this year.

With an expected footfall of 15 to 20 lakh, Delhi has become a major transit point over the years for kanwariyas on their annual pilgrimage to Haridwar. These devotees, many of whom travel barefoot, are en route to the sacred Ganga ghats.

210-km journey from Delhi to Haridwar

On their way to Haridwar and Rishikesh from Delhi, there are a number of pitstops that kanwariyas follow – with tents, medical camps and eateries set up to enable a seamless journey.

The first stop of kanwariyas is Partapur village, which happens to be 60 kilometre from Delhi. A report by Hindustan Times reveals that around five police tents, 15-20 camps for devotees, two-three medical camps with a fire tender on standby are present at the spot.

Followed by the Partapur village is Modipuram in Uttar Pradesh. The stop, which is 90 kilometres away from Delhi, has over a dozen camps and more than 500 police personnel deployed, according to the HT report.

Khatauli and Muzaffarnagar are the other two major stops in Uttar Pradesh before they enter Uttarakhand. A Shiva temple located in Muzaffarnagar serves as an important pitstop for devotees, where more than a million kanwariyas reportedly visit every year. “The pilgrimage is incomplete without a parikrama at the Shiv temple,” head priest Harish Bhardwaj told HT.

To ensure foolproof security, the Uttar Pradesh government has deployed 587 gazetted officers, 2,040 inspectors, 13,520 sub-inspectors, and 39,965 constables from the police and paramilitary forces.

Additionally, 1,486 women sub-inspectors and 8,541 women constables are on the ground, bolstering law enforcement. The security blanket is further strengthened by 50 companies of PAC and central forces, along with 1,424 home guards.

After Muzaffarnagar, the next pitstop is Roorkee before kanwariyas finally head to Haridwar – where they fill their pots with water from the Ganga and head back to their villages and towns, unlike some, who chose to move towards Rishikesh to visit the Neelkanth temple. Last year, reportedly six lakh people visited the place in only a single day.

More than just a yatra

The kanwar yatra has drawn attention in the last few years not just for its deep religious significance, but also due to rising concerns over incidents of hooliganism, vandalism and widespread traffic disruptions.

Recently, a case was registered after glass shards were found strewn on a road in northeast Delhi’s Dilshad Garden, part of the kanwar route. Delhi Lieutenant Governor VK Saxena took to X and shared a video of the spot stating that the crime branch is investigating the matter.

The matter is under scrutiny to identify is there is any malicious intent or communal angle involved.

In the year 2024, the kanwar yatra witnessed at least 20 documented cases of violence, according to a report by Quint.

Time to time, various directives have also been issued by the state governments that add to the trouble – often sparking accusations of religious profiling and indirect targeting of Muslim vendors.

The Yogi Adityanath government has directed that eateries and food stalls along the 540-km Kanwar route -- from Meerut to Muzaffarnagar -- must display a QR code which will reveal key details including the names and identities of the owner, FSSAI license status, hygiene inspection reports, and whether the food is classified as vegetarian or non-vegetarian. In this regard, the Supreme Court has sought response from the state government on a plea challenging the directive.

The top court had last year stayed similar directives issued by BJP-ruled Uttar Pradesh, Uttarakhand, and Madhya Pradesh, asking eateries along the kanwar yatra routes to display the names of their owners, staff and other details.