The 18th edition of India Couture Week wrapped up in style, culminating in a spectacular grand finale by the ace fashion designer, JJ Valaya. Set against an opulent backdrop, this year’s couture celebration was a vivid reminder that Indian craftsmanship, heritage, and innovation are thriving. With 14 of the country’s most celebrated couturiers presenting their finest, the week was an unforgettable display of couture trends woven in silk, sequins, and sheer artistry.
On the last day of the ICW 2025, designer JJ Valaya’s finale brought together all the elements that define his distinctive aesthetic with his signature grandeur, history, and a touch of drama. Models floated down the runway in architectural lehengas, jewel-toned jackets, and statement accessories, echoing royal nostalgia with a contemporary twist.
His collection titled ‘East’, was inspired by how the West once viewed the East, especially around the 18th century. And, it took him eight months to create an elaborate line of both menswear and womenswear for the show.
The designer mentions, “I’m not someone who chases trends for the sake of trends. But I do ensure that what I create is relevant to the present, even as it draws deeply from the past. I’ve always believed that luxury must be timeless. It cannot be trendy or fleeting. That said, fashion is cyclic. What’s in today might be out tomorrow, and what was out yesterday may return in a few years. It’s this ongoing rhythm that keeps me inspired. It pushes me to reinterpret the familiar in a new way, season after season, always grounded in heritage but looking ahead.”
From celebrity showstoppers to eclectic styles, the ICW extravaganza ushered in some interesting trends that were seen on runway this year.
Top-to-Toe Bling: If there was one message that echoed across all runways, it was this: when it comes to bridal couture, more is more. Designers amped up the drama with head-to-toe embellishments like heavily encrusted dupattas to shimmering veils and ornate accessories. Every inch sparkled with sequins, crystals, and fine threadwork, offering brides a look that was nothing short of celestial. Embellishment wasn't just restricted to the lehenga or sari; even capes, gloves, and footwear joined the bling brigade.
Best of Both Worlds: This year marked a seamless fusion of Indian tradition and Western silhouettes. Saris were draped over corsets, lehengas were paired with bomber jackets, and tailored gowns came adorned with zardozi and resham work. Structured blazers over shararas and embroidered trench coats layered over kalidar kurtas gave brides and grooms an option to mix cultures while staying rooted in Indian aesthetics.
Daring Necklines: Bridal couture broke conventions with bold and daring necklines with deep plunges, asymmetric cuts, and off-shoulder blouses made a strong statement. Designers played with structure and fluidity, ensuring that even the most revealing cuts looked graceful. These confident silhouettes redefined what bridal fashion can look like, balancing sensuality with elegance.
Opulent Menswear: Gone are the days when the spotlight was solely on the bride. Grooms stepped into the limelight this season in velvet bandhgalas, embroidered sherwanis, and layered jewels. Designers made a strong case for flamboyant masculinity with capes, sherwanis, bandgalas and embellished shirts that added extra flair, making the groom’s outfit a conversation starter.
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