Long Weekend | 36 hours in Luang Prabang, Laos

Wat Xiengthong, Khem Khong, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Molydar Souama via Unsplash)

Luang Prabang, in northern Laos, situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, was the ancient royal capital of the Laos Kings, until they moved to Vientiane, capital of Laos. Laos came under French rule between 1893 and 1953 when it finally became an independent country. Luang Prabang has remained the spiritual and religious centre of the country. The city’s name is derived from a golden Buddha image called the Pha Bang, a gift from the Khmer monarchy which is today preserved at the Haw Pha Bang, the Royal temple. Luang Prabang today, is an enchanting mix of French architecture and Buddhist temples.

Till the 1980s, the town was hardly known, except to backpackers. Everything started changing from 1995, when it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its architecture. Old heritage buildings and town houses were renovated, many became heritage hotels and restaurants and today Luang Prabang is visited by hundreds of tourists from around the world. Besides its architecture, it is also well known for its textiles and mulberry paper.

From India, you can fly Thai airways to Bangkok and connect onward from there.

6 am

Take part in an ancient ritual

The ritual of Tak baat in Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

Just as the sun rises, walk to the centre of old town to see the ancient ritual of Tak baat, when the Buddhist monks, from their monasteries, clad in orange robes walk in a single file, with bowls in hand, to  receive alms from the faithful and gain merit — usually balls of sticky rice or baked yam. Small stalls, set up on the road, sell the offerings to devotees who sit on mats and stools by the road sides. Monks of all ages, from young boys to older men, march along after getting their offering.

10 am

A tryst with royalty

Royal Palace, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

Visit the Royal Palace, on the banks of the Mekong, built for the King Sisavang Vong, in 1904, during the French colonial era. After 1975 when the royal family was overthrown by the Communists, it was converted into a museum. The architecture is a mix of Lao motifs and French styles with wooden timber floors, and murals painted by a French artist in the King’s reception room. Elephant tusks, lacquered Ramayana screens, and Italian marble, this is a visual feast. The  showstopper of the Palace is the throne Room with red painted walls, encrusted with glittering mosaics made from Japanese glass.

Scenes from the Ramayana painted on the walls of the Royal Palace, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

2 pm

Pray at the Wats

Temple Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

There are more than 35 UNESCO listed wats or temples around town, with a spiritual aura, each a living institution of Buddhist monks where they study, work and live. Arrive appropriately dressed with legs and shoulders covered. The most beautiful one is  Wat Xieng Thong dating back to 1560, with a huge roof that looks like a bird ready to fly with its outstretched wings. It has the most exquisite glass mosaics in the red chapel behind as well as a huge "Tree of life" mosaic on a wall. Red river serpents, gold stenciling on maroon and black walls, a reclining Buddha,  murals  of tales from the life of Buddha and the Jataka tales, this is a sensory feast. Wat Mai Luang Prabang features an impressive five-tiered roof, a magnificent black-lacquer and gilded relief, depicting scenes from the Ramayana and the life of Buddha.

Wat Pa Phai, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

Visit the lesser-known Wat Pa Phai or the Monastery of the Bamboo Forest, tucked into a side street with glittering gold leaf, mosaics and a trio of  flamboyant peacocks.  Don’t miss the murals from the life of the Buddha with details derived from 19th-century Lao rural life.

6 pm

Head to the night market

Food stall at the night market, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

Walk along the Mekong waterfront,  lined with  mango and jackfruit trees, and  bohemian bamboo-shack bars with wooden decks overhanging over the muddy river. Walk to the night market that is set up every evening in the center of town, with more than 200 stalls selling tribal and ethnic wares like bright shawls, silk scarves and textiles with Hmong embroidery, silver jewelry and pouches of Laotian coffee. Food stalls do brisk business from coconut pancakes on hot griddles, to noodle soup and  fruit juices. It’s full of verve and energy, that goes on till late at night.

Food stall at the night market, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

Day 2

10 am

Visit the waterfalls

Waterfalls, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kyle Petzer via Unsplash)

Several waterfalls tumble down the mountains surrounding the town.  The most beautiful one is  Kuang Si Waterfalls, 30 km from the  town. Walk along the trail through the forest with bridges and platforms, as  it climbs alongside the 200-metre-high falls that is in many tiers, with  turquoise pools. The  main cascade  drops 60 metres into a cloud of mist. Drop by to see  rare Asiatic Black bears in the Bear Rescue Centre, near the falls.

2 pm

Get a culture fix at TAEC

At the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

In the hills surrounding Luang Prabang, ethnic hill tribes like Hmong and Khmu have their homes. A great place to learn about their culture is the TAEC (Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre) which showcases everything from traditional textiles to jewellery like silver headdresses, household utensils, musical wind instruments of different tribal groups. From traditional jaw harps, to bamboo baskets, elaborate headgear, the museum is a must do. Drop by at the museum shop to pick up a souvenir.

6 pm

Dine in luxury

Manda de Laos restaurant Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Mandadelaos.com)

Have a meal at Manda de Laos, a romantic little restaurant with a fairytale ambience, that overlooks a pond stocked with carp and water lilies. The property has been with the family for three generations and the three lotus ponds with floating lotus blossoms and water lilies, are a UNESCO heritage site! Feast on traditional Laotian food like Neam Khao, a Laotian crunchy rice salad. Vegetarian Laap (tofu mixed with rice powder and herbs), grilled fish with lemongrass, and crunchy coconut rice.

Day 3

10 am

Take an architecture tour

Take a stroll to see the French architecture on the buildings of Luang Prabang in Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

Explore the French and Laotian architecture. Explore the wealth of French colonial buildings with wooden shutters, many of them housing offices and hotels today. Walk down the main street Sisavangvong, lined with wooden shop houses that are souvenir shops, and cafes, low-rise colonial buildings and wats or temples. Revive in one of the many French style cafes with coffee and croissants. Dive  into a back street to find another parallel universe of old wooden Laotian houses with bamboo panels and pointed roofs, fronted by gardens and palm trees,  and dogs stretched lazily in the afternoon sun.

2 pm

Visit the UXO centre

Old cluster-bomb shells remind of a time of war at the UXO Centre, Luang Prabang, Laos. (Photo: Kalpana Sunder)

To get a glimpse into the sad history of the town that made Laos the most heavily-bombed country in history. Spend time at the UXO Centre. For almost 17 years, it was bombed by both northern Vietnam and the US, as it was part of the infamous Ho Chi Minh trail during the Vietnam War (1955-75). More than 270 million cluster bombs were dropped, and many of them  which failed to detonate, remain unexploded in fields even today causing deaths or maiming people. From unexploded cluster bombs, to the work done in clearing these land mines, the museum gives you an insight into its painful history.