36 hours in Kozhikode, city of 550 libraries

Ruins on the Kozhikode beach. (Photo courtesy Kerala Tourism)

Towards the middle of the Kerala coast, Kozhikode (or Calicut) is an ancient city in the centre of the Malabar region with a rich history and intricate cultural fabric. By far, its most famous reference goes back to Vasco da Gama who landed on a beach nearby. But that’s not its entire identity. At various points in history, the city was a major centre of spice trade, bridging routes and relations between China, Europe and the Arab world.

Apart from a plethora of beaches that offer stunning views of the sea, especially at sunset, Kozikode is an especially rich backdrop for the creative arts, specifically the written word and a vibrant literary culture. The most prominent marker of this is the annual Kerala Literature Festival which is held on the city’s beaches. Which is possibly among the several literary reasons that prompted UNESCO to include it in its Creative Cities Network as a literary city.

A file photo of Kozhikode Literature Festival. Kozhikode has recently been announced as the City of Literature by UNESCO. (Photo courtesy Kerala Literature Festival)

There is some speculation that origins of this speciality go back possibly to the 14th century when its literary masters received royal patronage. But more concrete reasoning is that the first Malayalam novel, Kundalatha by Appu Nedungadi, was produced in the city in 1887. Besides, many other renowned Malayalam writers, such as Vaikom Muhammad Basheer, P Valsala, MT Vasudevan Nair and others, have been connected to the city in some way. More staggeringly, a study by a local college recently revealed that the city and its adjoining areas have over 70 publishing houses and more than 100 book stores. However, the most astonishing revelation that there are upwards of 550 libraries, though these include both public and private/personal. Enough to indicate the city’s literary bent and validation for the UNESCO tag.

To get the best experience of the city, time your visit for January when the lit fest is usually held. At other times, the city’s literary prowess might seem intangible, but a day a half is more than enough to reveal those aspects that have served as inspiration.

Day 1

Morning

Since it is the West coast, the ideal start is a long walk on the beach at dawn, much before the sun’s rays have a chance to heat things up. Fortify yourself with a local breakfast of appam and stew or puttu and kadala curry. Once that’s done, go on a spiritual journey of hopping across various iconic religious places — Tali temple, Mother of God cathedral, Mishkal and Muchundipalli mosques, which depict a variety of architectural styles.

Mishkal Mosque, Kozhikode, Kerala. (Photo via Wikimedia Commons)

Afternoon

For lunch, head to Paragon Restaurant, an iconic Kozhikode eatery that is known for its delicious seafood dishes; try the fish moilee, fish kombathu, prawn curry and biryani. To counter the afternoon heat and humidity, visit the Pazhassiraja Museum and Art Gallery which has a rare collection of murals, bronzes, rare old coins, ancient earthenware and models of temples and megalithic monuments. If you have time, swing by Krishna Menon Museum, which showcases a variety of art.

Krishna Menon Museum, Kozhikode. (Photo courtesy Kerala Tourism)

Evening

Head to the beach to witness a spectacular sunset or wander along the 3 km-long Beach Road for its variety of street food and other sights including an aquarium at one end. As night falls, head to SM Street or sweet meat street, a commercial hub that is believed to go back several centuries, to the time of the Zamorin and the advent of trading communities from around the country including Parsis. As the name indicates, there are a plethora of shops that sell sweets — specifically the famous Kozhikode halwa, a chewy, flavourful concoction, and banana chips. But apart from food, the street hosts an eclectic collection of stores on either side of the street hawking all manner of goods — from clothes and textiles to electronic gadgets and consumer goods.

Day 2

Morning

Beypore beach, Kozhikode. (Photo courtesy Kerala Tourism)

After a leisurely breakfast, choose to spend the day at a beach or better still go beach hopping since Kozhikode has several — Kappad, Vadakara and Beypore apart from the one that is part of the city. For those with an artistic bent, head to Sargaalaya, an arts and crafts village about an hour north of the city. Spread over 20 acres on the banks of the Moorad river, the village offers various crafts made from such materials as bamboo, coconut shells, banana leaf and others. Visitors can even try their hand at making some of the samples. There are demonstrations of local classical and folk art forms, as well as boating facilities on the river. Head back to Kozhikode for lunch and stop at Zains, the city’s other icon known for its Mappila cuisine, a fusion of local Kerala, Arab and other influences. Taste some of the meat dishes, especially stuffed chicken and lamb that is best eaten with pathiri or parotta. Try also their range of biryanis, which are guaranteed to induce food coma on the journey back home.

Kappad beach, Kozhikode. (Photo courtesy Kerala Tourism)