Ahmedabad, Gujarat: Stepping back in time

Jama Masjid, old Ahmedabad. (Photo Anita Rao Kashi)

In the heart of Ahmedabad’s old town, Kalupur Swaminarayan temple thrums with a quiet buzz early in the morning as golden light reflects off the white and ochre facade. The air is still and serene, broken only by an occasional ringing of the temple bell. A handful of devotees are immersed in their devotion. Quite apart from the religious aspect, the architecture, carvings and figurines are riveting.

Swaminarayan temple, old Ahmedabad. (Photo: Anita Rao Kashi)

It makes perfect sense that the structure is the starting point of the Ahmedabad heritage walk (heritagewalkahmedabad.com; starts around 7.30 am; Rs 200 per person; 2.5 hour duration). The temple is a microcosm of the city’s history and encompasses many influences, built in a mix of Indian, British and Mughal architectural styles. Almost 200 years, wandering around the temple reveals colourful engravings and sculptures, columns, walls, beams and ceiling. There are depictions of people and dancers dressed in traditional Rajasthani and Marathi style as well as birds, animals, leaf and plant motifs. A political statement too finds space: an engraving portraying the first Indian war of Independence in 1857.

As a motley group of strangers set off on the walk, we are first fortified with sweet masala tea from a vendor just outside the temple. Beyond, the volunteer guide leads the group through a warren of narrow streets with old buildings sitting cheek by jowl, giving a brief history. Accordingly, Ahmedabad was established on the banks of the Sabarmati river on the ancient site of Ashaval and Karnavati in early 15th century by the Delhi Sultanate. Later, Mughals and the Marathas ruled over it, before it became a major centre of the Independence movement. And so, evidently, the city is home to exquisite Hindu, Jain and Islamic monuments.

Pol. (Photo: Anita Rao Kashi)

As the narrative winds down, we arrive at one of Ahmedabad’s iconic features, the pol. At its simplest, a pol is a cluster of houses, a neighbourhood in short, with narrow streets and passages with a central courtyard for a temple, a community well and a chabutara or bird feeder. It is a world unto itself, self-contained and protected. Pronounced as pole, these go back to the early 18th century and were a defence mechanism; they even have secret passages and hiding places known only to the people of the pol. When they were established, a pol contained people of the same caste, religion or vocation but that has changed now. But there is still an element of the old world feel: people greet each other, sit in the courtyard and read newspapers or exchange news, children run around... At one point, there were over 360 of them, but some have been lost to development. Over the years they’ve been witness to the city’s tumultuous history and could probably reveal dramatic stories if they could!

Details of a building architecture. (Photo: Anita Rao Kashi)

Chabutara, bird feeder.(Photo Anita Rao Kashi)

Crossing from one pol to another, it is enthralling to discover that each has its own distinct features. One has mesmerising old wooden doors and carvings, another has a massive bright green bird feeder, in nooks and corners are little shrines and temples, almost like tabernacles, dedicated to various Gods and Goddesses. At Kharakua Ni Pol, literally saltwater well, the motifs are distinctly British and European and in Kuawalo Khancho, are houses in different architectural styles — vernacular Gujarati, Maratha, Persian — sitting next to each other.

Hidden between these are even more precious gems, such as Kala Ramji Mandir, a 400 year old temple that looks like a house, and Harkuvar Sethani ni Haveli, an exquisite house with beautiful facade, and elaborate wooden carvings on the brackets, pillars and doors. A few minutes from here is the Fernandez Bridge, built in the late 19th century by the British. The road under the bridge opens into a larger road on which is the old Ahmedabad stock exchange, a regal building with intricate detailed work on the windows and facade. Nearby is Manek Chowk, the city’s largest market, which is yet to swing into the day’s rhythm.

The stone jaali in Sidi Saiyyed Mosque in old Ahmedabad. (Photo: Shubham Dodiya via Unsplash)

By now the walk has gone on for more than two hours and is winding down with the last stop at Jama Masjid. The approach road is filled with narrow buildings with beautiful jaali work before leading to the mosque entrance. Almost 600 years old and built of yellow sandstone, it is a stunning edifice with multiple domes, arches and a multitude of pillars with carvings of motifs and patterns. At that hour, there is hardly anybody and air is filled with tranquillity, just like the temple at the start, nicely bookending the walk. Together with everything in between the walk provides a glimpse of Ahmedabad’s soul, leaving an indelible impression.