Restaurant review | Khi Khi, Delhi’s latest cocktail bar is a refreshing take on templated pub culture

Khi Khi restobar, Delhi.

There’s a reason certain places become the talk of the town, soon after they launch. Khi Khi is one such new spot that has emerged a crowd-favourite almost overnight, since it debuted in Vasant Vihar’s iconic, revamped Priya complex late last month. One of the reasons for its popularity is apparent the moment the elevator door opens and you step into the space, to be greeted by what is, perhaps, one of the most eye-catching murals to adorn the walls of any such establishment.

The labour of love of a young trio — chef-entrepreneur Tarun Sibal and partners-restaurateurs Bipin Sibal and Navdeep Singh Sethi — Khi Khi is primarily a cocktail bar that boasts a mean selection of innovative heady infusions, with a limited but varied menu of ‘evolved Indian’ food. The F&B offerings form the highlight here, but what truly sets it apart is its laidback, fun vibe that perfectly marries with its jovial interiors to make for a refreshing change from the cookie-cutter pub template. True to its name, which refers to the sound of a giggle in Hindi, Khi Khi has been designed with a spirit of playfulness and intimacy that encourages you to shed your inhibitions, unwind, share, giggle and groove over cocktails and good music.

Khi Khi restobar, Priya complex, Vasant Vihar, Delhi.

The space is small but intimate, designed by the award-winning firm DCA with an intention to bring the essence of Indian chic to the forefront. A lot of wood, stone, leather and textiles thus find their way into the décor and furniture, exuding a sense of comfort and warmth, and making you feel at home at once. Strings of colourful wool run through the entire breadth of the ceiling, lending it a quirky vibe.

The centrepiece though is the Khi Khi Wall that forms the backdrop of the bar and the main dining area, and makes for a favourite spot for photo-ops. What seems like a stunner of a wall mural on first look is, in fact, a single piece of carpet of a massive 45ft by 9ft size and weighing a whopping 110 kg, designed by artist Jayesh Sachdev of Quirk Box, who’s known for his outlandish graphics. Handwoven with wool imported from New Zealand by local weavers of Varanasi brought together by a collective called Carpet Cellar, the carpet mural depicts the many avatars of the strong, independent women of today who aren’t afraid to go out there, do it all, and have fun while at it.

'Yes, We Have a Bellini' cocktail at Khi Khi, Delhi.

There’s no dearth of fun to be had at Khi Khi. As my friend and I make ourselves comfortable at one of the high tables, we’re handed what looks like a 40-pager funkily designed magazine, with Sachdev’s illustration of a giggling woman on the cover. The Khikhizine is, in fact, their menu that details the curated selection of contemporary cocktails and evolved Indian food, which are all chef Tarun’s freewheeling interpretations of old and new favourites.

Khi Khi restobar, Delji.

To begin with, I give my regular gin-based cocktails a miss and go for their cheeky rendition of a bellini, instead. Prosecco with stone fruit and all spice, the ‘Yes, We Have a Bellini’ arrives in a tall glass hidden inside a wooden box with a lid that is opened with a flourish at the table. The ‘Cinema Highball’ is a tribute to the bar’s location in the premises of an iconic movie theatre, and features a butter-washed and popcorn-infused Tennessee whiskey topped with cola. When I do circle back to my gin favourites, the ‘A Gimlet Full of Flowers, Maybe the Whole Garden’ seems as dramatic in appearance as its name. Served on a tray of fresh flowers, chef Tarun’s take on floral gin cocktails exudes a bouquet of floral notes. While one may be tempted to dismiss the concoctions and their presentations as theatrical, fact is that the ingenuous cocktails work well and leave quite an impression on even the most discerning palate.

Fair-Trade Paloma, Hyper Local, Super Sustainable at Khi Khi, Delhi.

Complementing the drinks is a selective menu of small and medium plates that reflect chef Tarun’s ‘gourmet casual’ philosophy with dishes that are inherently Indian, yet evolved in taste and execution. Take the Eggs Jia Lal for instance, which I order solely on his insistence, as no one in their right mind would want to have a bun omelette at an upscale bar! However, one bite into the slider-sized soft bun and egg sandwich and I stand corrected. The humble dish turns out to be my favourite of the evening, followed closely by the Salem Spiced Pork Belly with a deliciously tender meat coated with a glaze that ticks the spicy, sweet and savoury boxes all at once.

Salt Roast Podi Beets, Pink Mole, Glitter, Dosa at Khi Khi, Delhi.

Of the medium plates, the mushroom olive kulcha with a black garlic butter and the chicken ghee roast with chilli miso become instant hits at the table.

Pyaazi Keema, creamed curd and lemon balm at Khi Khi, Delhi.

We end the evening by clicking numerous photos against the wall mural, while grooving with yet another cocktail in hand to the vibey music playing at the console. As the night progresses, so do the giggles!