Kodaikanal: the perfect weekend getaway from Chennai or Bengaluru

The trek to Kookal falls is a half-day adventure, but it is well worth it. (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

We all have our comfort zones. Holiday destinations we never tire of. Kodaikanal is one of mine. While I don’t mind the odd quiet afternoon when I might opt to stay indoors and enjoy the Kodai weather from the comfort of my couch, Kodaikanal has always been about stepping out of that same comfort zone and making new discoveries.

There’s always a new discovery waiting around this scenic hill station that shot to prominence in the 19th century. Like most other colonial-era ‘hill stations’, the British aimed to create a slice of home away from home to escape the summer heat of Madras. Almost two centuries later, a whole new generation of Indian travellers finds the same comfort.

Where Kodaikanal converges: the 7 Roads junction is the heart of Kodaikanal. It’s where Kodaikanal began and some of its famous landmarks like the Kodai International School are all a few steps away. It’s also the default F&B and retail zone. Ten Degrees is my favourite restaurant in Kodaikanal; great service and a menu packed with global plates and comfort food – their steaks are fail proof. Get to Café Cariappa early in the day before they run out of their legendary carrot cake. The Hoopoe Shop is a great spot for local produce like organic wild honey.

A lake for all seasons: Kodaikanal’s manmade lake dates back to the 1860s and is at the centre of it all. It can get extremely busy during the summer months and over weekends during peak holiday season. It’s still a fantastic walking or cycling trail, if you can wake up early. Mornings are also the best time for photography. There are multiple vantage points around the lake and above the lake where you can snap a bird-eye panorama.

Poombarai village. (Photo: Abhishek Prasad via Unsplash)

A pandemic baby: Poombarai is one of the most charming villages in Tamil Nadu. For years, it was mostly a temple stop. It’s home to the historic Kuzhanthai Velappar temple, an important shrine for devotees of Lord Muruga (Karthik). During the pandemic, when busy tourist spots like Pillar Rocks were closed, travellers started to go beyond Kodaikanal town once the initial lockdown ended. One of these roads led to Poombarai with its terraced landscapes and homes with tiled roofs.

Take a hike: it’s not the easiest spot to access. I’d only recommend it if you’ve trekked before and are reasonably fit. The trek to the stunning Kookal falls is a half-day adventure but is well worth it. It’s one of Kodai’s best kept secrets, it remains pristine thanks to its off-road location. If you’re rushed for time or haven’t been hitting the gym lately, then take the scenic road past Gundupatti village and stop at the Kookal lake that’s covered with water lilies. Not all Kodaikanal’s waterfalls are tough to reach. Drive to Pallangi Falls or Vattakanal Falls that’s now better known as the Liril falls – you guessed it, this is where the iconic Liril TV commercial was shot.

Liril falls (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Time travel to the 19th century: If possible, travel to Kodaikanal during the week to avoid the holiday and weekend rush. Kodaikanal Club (accessible to members and affiliate clubs) in the heart of town is a throwback to Kodaikanal’s colonial past. Also make a stop at the Kodaikanal Solar Observatory that dates back to 1899. Solar data collected by the lab is the oldest continuous series of its kind in India. Kodaikanal is home to historic churches. The CSI Christ the Redeemer Church dates back to 1895 and is near Coaker’s Walk. The historic La Salette Church is Kodaikanal’s oldest Catholic Church. A fine example of Tamil architectural excellence, this church was dedicated on Easter Sunday in 1866.

Tee off in style: the best thing about the Kodaikanal weather is that you can golf even in the middle of the afternoon. The Kodaikanal Golf Club was established in 1895 as a 9-hole course. At that time tiger sightings on the course were not uncommon, which is why the 6th hole on the course is called the Tiger hole. Even today you might spot the occasional bison on the course’s well-manicured fairways. The course has been redesigned and is one of the most picturesque 18-hole courses in the country.

Hit the road: you have to get out Kodaikanal town to truly explore this scenic region. I’d recommend driving to Berijam lake and forest (your hotel can help you secure an entry permit) after breakfast. This scenic route goes through a reserve forest (visits are restricted – 9.30 am to 3 pm) and culminates at a picturesque lake. The Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute’s Sheep Research Centre is at Mannavanur village and offers sweeping views of the photogenic Mannavanur lake.

Mannavanur lake, Kodaikanal (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Stay

Great Trails Kodaikanal: you can spot their Swiss-style chalets from a distance when you approach Vilpatti, one of Kodaikanal’s most scenic corners. It’s 30-minutes away from the lake and offers a host of family-friendly activities including a zipline within the resort.

Tamara Kodai: Kodai’s most swish resort was once a Jesuit monastery. The original structure was built in the 1840s and has been painstakingly restored. The temperature controlled pool and decadent spa provide the perfect sanctuary.

Getting there

Kodaikanal is a 9-hour drive from Bengaluru and 10 hours away by road from Chennai. You can take an overnight train to Kodai Road (2-hour drive from Kodai) or fly into the Madurai airport (three hours away).