ICC Cricket World Cup 2023: A cricket enthusiast’s guide to Ahmedabad

The Narendra Modi Stadium in Ahmedabad has a seating capacity of 132,000. (Photo by A Cricket Premi via Wikimedia Commons 4.0)

This ICC Cricket World Cup’s most intriguing matches will be played inside Narendra Modi Stadium—the largest cricket stadium in the world. Standing on the banks of the Sabarmati since 1982, and renovated in 2021 by Australian design firm Populous (also known for their work on the Tottenham Hotspur Stadium in north London), this stadium has a long association with the World Cup. Much more history is set to be created, as this season’s inaugural and final matches, and the India-Pakistan match, are all teeing off on this Bermuda grass surface.

Ahmedabad has much more to offer by way of history. India’s first World Heritage City (as it was nominated in 2017 by UNESCO) is a feast for the senses for those interested in architecture, food or craft. If you have time to explore, here’s everything you need to see, do, eat and shop in the city known as the Manchester of India.

What to see and do

The best way to get under the skin of Ahmedabad in a short period of time is to sign up for a heritage walk with Ahmedabad Heritage Walk—which will take you across sites of religious and architectural significance, such as the 19th century Swaminarayan temple, the 15th century Jama Masjid, the many pols and chowks, over a 2.5 hour walk. If you’re keener on architecture, you can also opt for a customized one with Artchitectours.

Pay your respects at the Sabarmati Ashram, Mahatma Gandhi’s home, and lounge by the Sabarmati riverfront. Take in some late afternoon winter sun at the Kankaria Lake, built in 1451, where you can also explore colonial era Dutch tombs. Climb down some of the city’s remarkable stepwells: Adalaj has been standing since 149AD, and Dada Harir Vav’s octagonal shape is an architectural marvel of its own.

If you’d rather DIY, get a taste of some of the finest post-Independence architecture in India, visit the IIM-A campus, designed by Louis Kahn and BV Doshi; and the NID campus, which has Gautam and Gira Sarabhai imprint on it. At Amdavad ni Gufa, an underground art gallery designed by the late architect BV Doshi, spend time with an exclusive collection of MF Husain’s paintings.

Dive into India’s rich textile history at the internationally-renowned Calico Museum. Also to have on your radar is the vintage car museum; a day trip to Akshardham temple; a few hours at the Conflictorium, a unique museum that dwells on the city’s conflicts, located in Mirzapur; or a few hours at the Kite Museum.

Or you could forget all that and shop to your heart’s content in this paradise of souvenirs. Essential stops include the all-night bazaar Manek Chowk, Law Garden Market, the iconic shop Bandhej, the Rani No Hajiro market to stock up on ikat and ajrakh fabric, and Mangalya or Deepkala Silk Heritage for sarees.

Where to eat in Ahmedabad

When in Ahmedabad, graze as Amdavadis do. Which means a mandatory visit to the legendary Das Khaman House for khaman dhoklas and other Gujarati snacks. At Swati Snacks, bite into some good patra and dal baati. For authentic thali, head to Gordhan Thal or Toran Dining Hall. Fine diners can head to the rooftop Agashiye at the heritage hotel House of MG in old town for a menu-less, eat-as-it-comes experience. And you can’t leave the city without picking up your stash of crispy khakhra from Induben Khakhrawala.

ICC Cricket World Cup 2023 match schedule at Narendra Modi Stadium, Ahmedabad:

October 14: India vs Pakistan: 2 pm

November 4: England vs Australia: 2 pm

November 10: South Africa vs Afghanistan: 2 pm

November 19: Final: 2 pm