Delhi getaway: How wild to wild tiger translocation revived Sariska

Sariska has a sizeable leopard population too. (Photo via Malavika Bhattacharya)

Growing up in Delhi in the 1990s, Sariska was the holiday destination of choice for anyone who wanted a quick, easy, and successful wildlife getaway. Set in the scrub forests of the Aravallis at a driving distance of just 4 hours from Delhi, the tiger reserve offered safari experiences and frequent sightings of the big cat, along with a wealth of other wildlife.

The deciduous and scrub forests of Sariska were formerly the hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Alwar. In 1955, Sariska was declared a wildlife sanctuary and subsequently in 1978, the area became a tiger reserve. This is among India’s oldest tiger reserves, established under the aegis of an ambitious conservation program from the 1970s – Project Tiger. In 2024, 51 years since the project began, Sariska remains a rich and biodiverse wilderness with a healthy population of large fauna and avian life. But the story of Sariska has not always been one of success.

As the noughties rolled around, things changed in this once thriving forest. In 2004, Sariska’s tiger population was wiped out completely. A result of unchecked poaching, plus habitat loss due to human encroachment and mining led to the rapid decline of this once vibrant wilderness. Regular holidays to Sariska soon became a thing of the past.

Twenty years later, I find myself in the Tehla zone of Sariska. The Aravallis rise and fall in deep folds, the valleys scattered with shrubs and dark boulders. The sun blazes over the peaks, carpeted in dhok and palash trees, plus the ker, which features prominently in Rajasthani cooking.

On a walk through the buffer zone of the national park, Anil Rodgers, naturalist at Utsav Camp Sariska where I’m staying, points out small caves within the boulders beside a watering hole. “Hyenas live here,” he says. “They come out as the sun goes down.” Amidst these boulders of igneous rock and granite, a wealth of wildlife roam free. Though this area is prominent as a tiger reserve, there is a large population of leopards that roam these hills and valleys as well.

We clamber over some rocks to a high vantage point for high tea, set up by the staff at Utsav Camp. They’ve laid out tea, coffee, sandwiches and pastries – but it is the view that takes my breath away. As we sit facing west, watching a fireball dip low into the mountains, we keep our eyes firmly locked on a rock frequented by leopards, in the hope of sighting the sleek cat. Alas, the spot eludes us that day.

The Aravallis are among the world’s oldest fold mountains. In this million-year-old wilderness, where creatures large and small reign, true luxury lies in being in proximity to nature. Tucked into the fold of trees and bushes, my stone cabin at Utsav Camp offers privacy and rustic luxury. The tiger features prominently on a tropical-themed wall mural, and the bed overlooks a porch that opens onto the rugged wilderness. Here, I begin my mornings with a cup of coffee al fresco and end the days gazing up at a star-studded sky from the outdoor khaat. Meals at Utsav Camp showcase the best of Rajasthan – dal baati, churma, lal maas, gatte ke sabzi. The property is surrounded by the peaks of the Aravallis, and echoes with birdsong from the crack of dawn. There are woodpeckers and orioles, lapwings and ibis’ aplenty in the vicinity.

High tea organized by Utsav Camp Sariska

In the era of sustainable travel, this property highlights immersive experience that showcase what’s local, giving back to the community, and being involved in conservation efforts. More than 80 percent of the staff are from surrounding villages, the rooms run on solar power, and the camp uses camera traps to regularly monitor the biodiversity of the region.

Travelling mindfully and sustainably in a wilderness area involves keeping an open mind, and accepting whatever the forest has in store. When I set out for a jeep safari on my final morning, I enjoy being in a forest that is just beginning to stir. The sunlight filters through the trees, and all is quiet for over an hour. Most unexpectedly, we come face to face with a regal tigress, basking in the warm morning sun. As our jeep reverses so as to keep a safe distance between us and the big cat, she lazily lumbers off down the forest path, weaving in and out of the thicket. We’ve just encountered ST-30 (Sariska Tiger 30), one of Sariska’s 31 tigers.

The rise and fall and rise again of the tiger population here is the result of the world’s first successful wild to wild tiger translocation program. From 2008-2013, 10 tigers were translocated from Ranthambore National Park to Sariska. Subsequently, cubs were born in this forest, and translocation is still ongoing, leading to a steady rise in numbers of this apex predator. Today, the 881 sq. km. of the forest’s core area is home to a healthy population of the striped cat, and a testament to the ongoing conservation efforts in the region.

What to eat in Sariska

Sample to traditional food of the Alwar region, including:

Ker Sangri: dried Ker berries and Sangri beans, both of which grow locally

Methi (fenugreek) sabji with papad: A traditional winter delicacy of methi cooked with papad