Ultimate guide to Madrid, Spain

The Crystal Palace in Buen Retiro Park, Madrid. (Photo: Jo Kassis via Pexels)

When you think of the great capitals of Europe, Paris, Berlin, Rome come to mind. But for the in-the-know traveller, it’s time to update this mental map by giving Madrid - long regarded as somewhat of a second fiddle to the Gaudi-glamour of Barcelona, even within Spain- pride of place on it.

Madrid was a provincial backwater, with less than an ideal climate, when it was unexpectedly picked in 1561 by Philip II of Spain, as the permanent location of what had until then been an itinerant court. It was a decision that puzzled many. Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and father of Philip II, reportedly said, “If you wish to preserve your kingdom, then you should keep Toledo as its capital; if you wish to expand it, make Lisbon the capital; and if you wish to lose the kingdom, choose Madrid.”

The quote is probably an example of an early urban myth, but Madrid’s reputation as somewhat unsophisticated and stuffy stuck for centuries, with tourists often bypassing it for the sunlit charms of the white villages of Andalusia, or the azure waters of the Costa Brava, off Catalonia.

I have been visiting the capital city since 2004, with my then-Spanish boyfriend, now-husband. To say that Madrid has changed since then would be akin to describing the Pope as religious: an understatement.

The memories of my first few visits to the city are suffused with cigarette smoke – people used to start sucking on cigarettes inside the airport, while waiting for their bags to arrive at the conveyor belt, bang under no-smoking signs. The restaurant “scene” consisted largely of old-fashioned bars with legs of ham hanging from the ceilings, looking on dolorously at the dirty floors littered with used napkins and olive pits.

Fast-forward 20 years, and Madrid has burst onto the European scene as one of liveliest, yet friendliest hotspots, where the days are suffused with art and culture and the nights rock on until daybreak. Smoking in public was banned in 2007, kicking off the transformation of the city centre from gritty to gentrified. An influx of immigrants from Latin American countries in recent years has given the capital a more cosmopolitan feel, while Barcelona’s political troubles have nudged the country’s economic centre Madridwards.

The cumulative result is a reinvigorated cityscape, packed with hipster cafes and innovative chefs who are elevating traditional cuisine with modern twists. A highlight is the ubiquity of high-quality Nikkei restaurants- a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese food– think sashimi, but with aji and lime, instead of soy sauce and wasabi.

And it’s not only the new that glitters. The venerable Prado Museum with its smorgasbord of works by Goya, Velazquez’ and El Greco was recently declared part of an extensive UNESCO World Heritage site that occupies a large part of central Madrid and includes the Retiro Park. The latter is a 17th century, 120-hectare, green space, dotted with palaces that house rotating art exhibitions, lakes, and ornamental gardens.

(Photo by Luis Quintero via Pexels)

Also read: Around three Spanish World heritage cities in eight dishes

Bang opposite the Prado is the Thyssen museum, whose permanent collection traces the history of European paintings from the Middle Ages through to the late 20th century. Its relatively modest size makes it less intimidating than the Prado, and its special exhibitions are usually excellent. The museum gift shop has some unique, artsy souvenirs.

Within walking distance is the third great art collection of Madrid, the modern art museum, Reina Sofia. The crowds here tend to gather in front of Picasso’s Guernica, but you will also find some superb works by Dali and Miró. A display of propaganda posters from the Spanish Civil War offer a fascinating glimpse into Spain’s more recent history.

Gallery of Museo Reina Sofia with Picasso's Guernica at rear. (Photo by Adam Jones, Ph.D. via Wikimedia Commons 3.0)

Moreover, behind cloistered walls Madrid hides a number of fascinating monasteries, palaces, and convents (a personal favourite is the Convent of Las Descalaz Reales), many of which are home to precious artwork. A side business for some nunneries is the sale of baked goods- a must-try.

But in general, the visitor is spoilt for choice when it comes to spending their hard-earned money. Shopping in Spain is cheaper than in many other parts of Europe, yet the quality is impeccable, with traditional artisanal skills, particularly in leatherwork, still alive. Madrid’s retail scene stretches from fast-fashion giants like Zara and Mango along high-street shopping drags like Gran Via and Calle Serano, to bespoke boutiques in the Malasaña and Salesas neighbourhoods.

But besides the great food, art, and shopping, Madrid’s real USP is the infectious energy of its streets. Curbside cafes are always packed, because in Spain, if it isn’t breakfast time, it's coffee time, and lunch time tends to blend into Gin o’clock, which segues nicely into dinner and digestives. I often judge how much I like somewhere by whether women loiter in public spaces. One of the best things about Madrid is the abundance of white haired, older women, hanging out in cafes with friends, laughing and quaffing vermouth.

(Photo: Next Voyage via Pexels)

Restaurants, bars, and cafes are ubiquitous, but two streets in particular are worth any self-respecting gastro-enthusiast’s time: Calle Jorge Juan in the upscale Salamanca neighbourhood, and Calle Ponzano, a street lined with less formal tapas bars and buzzing cocktail joints.

Madrid is a city that tends to get under the skin, to take you in and make you part of the family. It’s in the affectionate way people address each other, as cariño (dear) and guapa (beautiful). I even got called reina (queen) by an Amazon delivery guy once! It is possible you’ll visit for the first time for the Picassos or tapas, but what you’ll return for is the warmth and fun. With Madrid, it's rarely adios but hasta luego.