72 hours in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Varanasi's narrow alleys boasts a plethora of street art. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

From its vibrant Ghats to the majestic Ganga, its silk weaves to its mouth-watering cuisine, its temples to its universities, Varanasi is where you can experience a mélange of spirituality, culture, art, food, and heritage all rolled into one. Here is a three-day itinerary for you.

DAY 1

9 am: Breakfast at Sri Ram Bhandar

A good local meal is the best way to start a trip and the quintessential Sri Ram Bhandar, in Jaipuria is the most popular eatery. With a legacy that dates to 1887, they serve kachori sabji and jalebi, which is a favourite local meal. Made fresh and hot, this is how the locals start their day. The original restaurant is located within the bylanes surrounding the ghats and this is their city outlet where the cooks even invite you to try making the jalebis.

10 am: Sarnath

Located about 15 km from the city of Varanasi, is Sarnath, the site where Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon after his enlightenment to five of his associates. Far removed from the hustle and bustle of Varanasi, this is where you can experience the tranquility of Buddhism. The main site is an open area that has been excavated to reveal many brick stupa structures. Now there are several paths that showcase the important monuments here. An interpretation centre is on site that explains the details of the excavations. Do visit the museum near the sight.

Sarnath excavation, 15 km from Varanasi. (Photo: BIndu Gopal Rao)

2 pm: Lunch at Taj Banaras

For a saatvik meal experience head to Varuna at The Taj in Varanasi. The Benarasi Satvik Thali is a pure vegetarian meal made without the use of onion and garlic and has an assortment of dishes, spiced minimally, and served in a traditional silver platter with small bowls. The dishes include Dal, Achari Mirch ke Aloo, Baingan Kalaunji, Nimona a tempered green peas mash and Sattu ka Paratha among others. The meal is simple and wholesome and is a perfect lunch post a hectic morning.

4 pm: Galli Walk

Narrow bylanes of Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

The narrow bylanes of Varanasi is where you can experience the real ethos of the city. Tiny roads that have stores on both sides, are all about seeing what the city is really like. This is where you can shop for local delicacies like the aloo papad and a range of mouth fresheners. These narrow alleys also have a lot of street art and local eateries that sell the famed lassi and paan as well. Just be mindful of the cows that amble their way as well the two wheelers that zip in and out of the lanes.

6 pm: Aarti at Dasashwamedh Ghat

Ganga aarti at Dasashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

The most important attraction of the city is the evening aarti that happens every day at the ghats. There is a sea of humanity that you will see in attendance, so it is a wise idea to arrive in advance so you can get a vantage point to view the same. There are also boats that you can hire to see the aarti from the river. Lasting roughly 45 minutes the aarti is a visual spectacle and makes for some great Instagram-able images.

7.30 pm: Dinner at Deena Chat

Chaats at Dena Chat, Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

The chaats of Varanasi are well known and interestingly there is no garlic or onion used in them. However, the chaats are so flavourful that you will never miss them. From the tamatar chaat to the golgappe dahi, these chats are a mélange of flavours that are sure to take you on a gastronomic journey like no other. The only thing to be mindful of is the huge crowds that throng this place – so reach early and try to see if you can sit inside. And as you try the chats one after the other, you will be so full that you cannot really eat anything else.

DAY 2

5 am: Morning Aarti at Assi Ghat

Waking up early to enjoy the daily ritual ‘Subah-e-Banaras’ is a good idea to start the day. This happens at 5 am (check exact timings based on the season), where you can see the morning aarti that is usually accompanied by a classical music performance by upcoming artists. The ambience is quite unique and is a must see especially if you are an early riser.

6 am: Boat Ride on the Ganga

Morning boat ride on the Ganga. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

An early morning boat ride post the aarti will reward you with amazing sunrise views as well. The boat ride rates however need some heavy negotiation. The open boats usually also allow you to see all the ghats here. During winters there are hundreds of seagulls that migrate here and are usually seen swirling around the boats.

8 am: Street food breakfast

To eat as the local’s do, the street food of Varanasi around the ghats make for a quintessential breakfast option. There are carts that line up in strategic locations that serve you some of the most amazing kachoris with chickpea curry. There are also sandwich carts that dish out several tens of varieties of sandwiches that are a must try. And of course, finish it all with jalebi and hot chai served in kulhads (earthen cups).

10 am: Ramnagar Fort

Ramnagar Fort, Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

Ramnagar Fort dates to the 18th-century and was built by Maharaja Balwant Singh the erstwhile king of the region as an ancestral home. Now this place is a museum that has a collection of antique scripts, vintage furniture, cars, royal costumes, silver elephant saddles, an armoury of old swords and guns, an unusual astronomical clock, all belonging to the royal family. The fort is believed to have been built to honour Ved Vyasa who is said to have lived here. The annual month-long Ram Leela festival is a highlight when the fort comes to life.

1 pm: Lunch at Pallavi Baati Chokha Restaurant

Dal, baati, chokha at Pallavi Baati Chokha Restaurant, Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

For some traditional local food, Pallavi Baati Choka serves a variety of options. The baati is a whole wheat dumpling that is cooked on an open fire and the chokha is a smoked brinjal curry that is eaten together. Do not miss trying the accompaniments that come along – from sliced onions to a fiery green chilli chutney and ghee. Sattu paratha is also served in the meal as well as a delish traditional, rice kheer.

3 pm: Admire the architecture of the city

Dalmia Bhavan, Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

With its ancient buildings, the city has several buildings that have stood the test of time. architectural details like the old, strong pillars, traditional balconies, and the ghats themselves that date back to the Maratha period, there is history in every corner here. There are several old homes as well and among them is the 19th century garden home, Dalmia Bhavan that has a distinct Danish architecture. The property is now owned by Kunal Dalmia who is planning to convert it to a boutique hotel property called 'SABO' soon. Currently a wedding destination, this building has pillars made using single stone columns from nearby Chunar and has been visited by Annie Besant, Mahatma Gandhi, Sarojini Naidu, and Rabindranath Tagore.

5 pm: Jhansi Ki Rani Lakshmi Bai Janmsthali and Lolark Kund

Varanasi is the birthplace of Lakshmi Bai the warrior queen and there is a small memorial that is dedicated to her. Accessible via a short walk from the Tulsi Ghat, there is a statue of the Lakshmi Bai and panels that showcase important events in her life. This is an open area that is set in a small, landscaped space where you can learn more about her life. From here check the Lolark Kund, a step well that is called Lord Sun's Pond. The water is believed to help childless couples conceive. Do not miss admiring the old homes that surround this locality.

7.30 pm: Dinner at Shree Shivay

To wind up the day, head to the thali restaurant Shree Shivay that serves a delectable meal in the traditional kansa or bronze metal cutlery. The meal includes a variety of dishes like buttermilk, chaat, dhokla, a few vegetable curries, poori, tawa roti, phulka, rice, khichdi, salad, papad, pickles, kheer and laddu.

DAY 3

8 am: Breakfast at Lakshmi Chai Toast

Start your day with the delectable toast varieties at Lakshmi Chai Toast. Located within the narrow alleys this nondescript restaurant was started in the 1950s and is not just known for their tea but also Butter Toast, Malai Toast that is made on coal. The bread is topped with homemade white butter that is absolutely on point. They also offer an Amul Butter toast as well as a Malai Toast sprinkled with sugar.  Do not miss the Caesarean toast - a butter filled bread toast.

10 am: Chunar Fort

Chunar Fort, Varanasi. (Photo: Bindu Gopal Rao)

An hour-plus drive from Varanasi will bring you to Chunar – home to a fort that has been built and rebuilt over time. Within the fort, which is currently also being used as a police training site which is out of bounds for tourists, you can see the Bharthari Samadhi dedicated to the brother of King Vikramaditya and the Sonwa Mandap that has Hindu architecture with 28 pillars and a stepwell. The Residence of Warren Hastings that has an old sun dial is here but currently cannot be visited.  In Chunar, it is advisable to take the services of a guide and not miss the stunning views of the Ganga from the top of the fort. Also stop at the Iftikhar Khan's Tomb complex where you can spend time seeing the premises that are home to several old monuments.

2 pm: Lunch at Tikana Dhaba

For typical North Indian fare head to Tikana Dhaba on the outskirts of Varanasi. Sample the extensive range of paneer, mushroom, and dal dishes that team well with the kulchas, naam and rotis that are served here. Food is made fresh and served piping hot. These also serve a variety of rice dishes and local desserts.

4 pm: Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum and Banaras Hindu University (BHU)

Started in 1920, the museum in the premises located within the BHU has a vast collection of miniature paintings, palm-leaf manuscripts, spread over several galleries. One of the oldest and most renowned universities in India, BHU was founded in 1916 by Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya, freedom fighter in association with Dr Annie Besant. Spread over a whopping 1300 acres, you can drive around the space and see many architecturally significant buildings here including the 425-room hostel and a Home Science block donated by the Dalmia family. Covered in dense greenery, the campus is now home to the IIT as well.