Dresden: Summer in Saxony, beer gardens and Court of Aurangzeb in Germany

Saxony’s famed beer gardens come alive in the summer, and the riverside becomes prime real estate for picnickers. (Representational photo: Elevate via Pexels)

Who was Augustus the Strong? A charismatic ruler in the German state of Saxony in the 1700s, who earned the nickname “the Saxon Hercules” for indulging heavily in activities like fox tossing, breaking horseshoes with his hands, and producing many children. His is a name you’ll hear a lot in Dresden, the capital of Saxony. Apart from his proclivity for procreation, he was also a patron of the arts, and is credited for much of Dresden’s cultural capital.

Dresden is a charming riverside city often called ‘Florence on the Elbe’ – a major centre of arts and culture defined by its magnificent architecture and rich history. It’s particularly inviting in the summer, when Saxony’s famed beer gardens come alive and the riverside is prime real estate for picnickers.

But Dresden wasn’t always like this.

The Semperoper was destroyed in the bombing of Dresden in 1945. (Photo via Wikimedia Commons)

On February 13, 1945, the Allied Forces bombed the German city to the ground. It was a pivotal moment in the Second World War. A magnificent skyline, once defined by Baroque-style spires, lay in absolute ruin. The story of Dresden is one of determined reconstruction and infallible spirit. The Old Town or Altstadt has been painstakingly restored to its former glory.

In summer, the weather is perfect for walking tours to take in the historic sights and boats cruise down the River Elbe. The best part? The city is eminently walkable. Here’s a handy guide on how to navigate Dresden’s best bits.

Old Town on foot

The Altstadt is Dresden’s most charming quarter – a historic enclave of restored Baroque architecture, cobbled streets, and elaborately adorned facades. A walking tour of this district on your first day is a perfect way to ease into Dresden’s rich history.

The city’s pièce de résistance is the Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, built entirely of stone. Much of Dresden’s history is written in this massive domed structure – the 12,000-tonne sandstone dome fell to the ground in 1945, destroyed not by the bombings, but by a raging fire from within. Reconstructed with many original bricks blackened by fire, the building is now a mosaic of old and new.

Explore the Theaterplatz – a square bordered by the iconic Semper Opera, the palatial 18th century Zwinger and the Dresden Palace – all reconstructed to look like they did before they were bombed. These landmarks showcase the thousand-year legacy of Saxony’s ruling Wettin family, including their fascination with all things extravagant.

The Baroque-style Zwinger Palace was Augustus the Strong’s festival arena or “party palace”, with beautiful courtyards and museums. There are statues of wine-swigging cherubic babies and artworks including Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. The Zwinger also houses the world’s largest collection of porcelain artefacts.

The Dresden Palace’s Grünes Gewölbe (Green Vault) was Augustus the Strong’s treasury, crammed with gold and silver artwork, ivory carvings and bejewelled trinkets. Many hours can be spent in the historic Green Vault admiring the dazzling collection, but don’t miss the Court of Aurangzeb and the glittery Dresden Green Diamond in the New Green Vault.

The Semper Opera reopened exactly 40 years after its destruction, and even today, the Greek God of wine Dionysus sits atop the structure on a chariot drawn by four panthers, just like in the old days of 1841.

Church of Our Lady, Dresden. (Photo courtesy German National Tourism Office India)

City by the water

The Elbe River cuts through Dresden, and on the riverbanks are sprawling meadows interspersed with 18th century castles and 20th century villas. A steamship river cruise in the summertime is the perfect way to unwind after an intense walkabout, allowing you to kick back and take in the sights. A boat tour will take you past vineyards and up to Pillnitz, the 18th-century summer palace.

A Saxon summer

Nothing says summer in Saxony like a cold pilsner sipped outdoors by the banks of the Elbe. This is the season when the city’s outdoor spaces thrive with concerts, picnics, and buzzing biergartens (beer gardens).

In Saxony, beer is more than a refreshing summer drink – it’s woven into the state’s cultural fabric. Traditional breweries here have been producing beer for hundreds of years, adhering to the German Beer Purity Law from 1516. The law states that only water, barley, and hops can be used to brew a pure German beer. Nowdays, of course, innovation is key. You’ll find many ways to experience Saxony’s beer culture, from tours of old-world breweries like Radeberger or heading to a typical beer garden.

There are many spots in Dresden where you can admire the city’s Baroque architecture and river views from an outdoor beer garden.

Schillergarten is one such – a vast biergarten with views of the River Elbe and the Blue Wonder bridge. Sitting under the shade of old trees, you’ll see steamboats go by as you snack on hearty sausages and potatoes while enjoying cold, crisp beers in true Saxon style.