36 hours in Cape Town: Robben Island prison, African penguins, Tabletop Mountain

Cape Town, South Africa, has something for everyone - Robben Island for the history nerd; mountain hikes, surfing and cycling for the adventure junkie; excellent Cape Malay fare for foodies; historic cricket grounds; and great Saturday Markets to take back a souvenir. (Photo: Taryn Elliott via Pexels)

It’s impossible to box Cape Town into silos. There’s history – this is the oldest city in South Africa; there are spectacular beaches; it’s a melting pot of cultures and a hub for the outdoorsy and adrenaline junkies. Add Cape Town’s eclectic dining scene and wine traditions, and you get myriad experiences and landscapes that few cities can match, anywhere in the world. It’s also impossible to conquer this city in 36 hours, but you can certainly get more than a flavour of Cape Town in that time.

Day One

Pick your half-day experience

There are two compelling half-day tours that are probably the best way to begin your Cape Town adventure:

Tour option 1: Robben Island; 3.5 hours

Nelson Mandela remains one of my favourite 20th Century icons; that’s one reason I’d recommend the three-and-a-half-hour Robben Island experience that includes a prison tour by former inmates.

A 20-minute boat cruise (there are typically three tours each day) from Cape Town’s historic waterfront area takes you to Robben Island. It’s also a great option to take in the views of Table Mountain, the city’s scenic waterfront and skyline.

The 5.18 sq. km island takes its name from the Dutch word for seals (Robben), and had been used for the incarceration of political prisoners since the 17th century. In 1961, the Apartheid government used this prison exclusively for political prisoners and criminals. This serves as testimony to the Apartheid regime’s reputation of psychological persecution. It’s comforting that Mandela’s spirit of reconciliation triumphed in the end.

On May 10, 1994, Nelson Mandela took office as the President of South Africa. Robben Island was decommissioned as a prison in 1996; and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999.

(Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Tour option 2: Cape of Good Hope

There’s a common misconception that Cape of Good Hope, the meeting point between the Atlantic and Indian oceans, is the southern-most point on the African continent. The truth is that that point lies 150 kilometres to the east-southeast, at Cape Agulhas.

It’s probably the legends that surround Cape of Good Hope that make it a popular destination. The half-day tour in Cape Town takes you through Chapman’s Peak Drive, a gorgeous drive that hugs the ocean from high cliffs. The Flying Dutchman, a funicular ride, takes you to the best vantage point next to the lighthouse at the Cape Point with 360-degree views of the ocean and the surrounding mountains.

Cape of Good Hope is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts with myriad hiking, surfing, and cycling opportunities. The tour also takes you to Simon’s Town, that’s home to the Boulders Penguin Colony, one of the last refuges in the world of the endangered African Penguins. It includes a penguin viewing area and three boardwalks that allow you to view these birds from a safe distance.

Boulders Penguin Colony (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Souvenir shopping

You will find local souvenirs and handicrafts at a makeshift market at Simon’s Town. If you’re opting for Robben Island tour, you can do lunch at the V&A Waterfront and then explore the shops in the area. There’s Pichulik for rope necklaces and Hello Charlie, a ceramic collective that showcases local ceramic artists with a wide variety of decorative and functional homeware pieces. If you enjoy haggling, head to Greenmarket Square that’s home to one of Cape Town’s most lively street markets.

One of the world’s most dramatic cricket venues

South Africa’s most historic cricket ground is also one of the world’s most scenic. A brewer originally owned the large tract of land where the stadium eventually came up in the 1880s. A local brewery next to stadium maintains that link. But that’s not the most striking feature of this stadium; the Table Mountain provides a dramatic backdrop and Devil’s Peak is not far away. Many South African cricketing venues still retain the embankments (what Australians call ‘The Hill’) and Newlands is no exception. No plastic seats and concrete rows, you can lie on the grass, indulge in a barbeque and catch the live action – the perfect family outing. You can also sign up for a stadium tour.

Flight of fantasy

If you have the budget and if you’re in a group, there’s no better way to see Cape Town, than from up above. Companies like NAC Helicopters offer short (as short as 12 minutes) ‘hopper’ tours that are perfect if you’re short on time. Fly over the Atlantic Ocean (with possible whale and dolphin sightings) and the best views of Table Mountain. You also fly over Green Point Stadium that was constructed for the 2010 World cup as well as Robben Island, Cape Town City Bowl, white beaches along the Peninsula and the Twelve Apostles Mountain Range.

Simon's Town (Photo: South Africa Tourism)

Sunset at Camps Bay Beach

I’d recommend staying in the Camps Bay neighbourhood (if Airbnb works for you, try the Camps Bay Loft) that is home to one of Cape Town’s hippest beaches. You can wrap up the day with a stunning Cape Town sunset and then explore the bars and restaurants along the beach. You could also head to Bree Street, one of Cape Town’s F&B hotspots and stop by at popular local hangouts like The Odyssey Gastropub or Bocca for pizza. If you’re looking for a nightcap, Merchants Shebeen at Long Street has a wide range of artisanal cocktails and is open well after midnight.

Chapman's Peak Lookout (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Day Two

Beach run

Sea Point beach is one of the city’s more popular beaches. You can run or walk along this stretch just after sunrise or sign up (it’s free) for the Greenpoint run. This fun and friendly weekly (Saturdays; 8 am) 5K community event allows you to explore the city and make new friends. You can walk, jog or run. If running’s not your thing and if you can’t make time for the Cape of Good Hope tour, head to Hout Bay just after sunrise. Most day trippers make the customary photo stop at Chapman’s Peak lookout that overlooks the scenic town of Hout Bay.

Saturday markets

If you’re in town on a Saturday, you’re in luck. The ‘Neighbourgoods’ Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock is one of the city’s most popular Saturday markets and is a treasure trove of artisanal produce and handmade crafts.  The Oranjezicht City Farm Market is also a showcase for regional produce and a great breakfast spot. If you’re not much of a shopper, you can also head to Two Oceans Aquarium that houses spectacular fauna from the Atlantic and Indian oceans.

Bo-Kaap (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Up your Instagram quotient

Ask any local for the most photogenic neighbourhood in Cape Town, and there’s a good chance you’ll get directed to Bo-kaap (translates to ‘above the Cape’ in Afrikaans). Almost every corner in this grid formerly known as the city’s Malay Quarter is a great spot for pictures. Brightly coloured homes combine with cobble-stoned streets in an area that contains the largest concentration of pre-1850 architecture in South Africa. You can explore the unique sub culture (head to the Bo-kaap museum) of the Cape Malays and their distinctive cuisine with South East Asian, Dutch and Indian influences.  Bo-Kaap Kombuis is one restaurant that serves authentic Cape Malay cuisine.

Cape Town’s most iconic landmark

There are multiple ways to explore Table Mountain, a magnificent mesa and Cape Town’s famous landmark that sets its skyline apart. If you’ve been hitting the gym, then hike all the way to the top on one of the trails post lunch for the best light. You can also take the easier route – a cable car ride (from Table Mountain Lower Cableway Station) for sweeping 360-degree beach views and the Lion’s Head Peak next door. The perfect finale for your Cape Town adventure.