Why Chanchal “Chan” Kunwar Singh is riding 20,000 km across India on a bicycle

By Day 115, Chanchal “Chan” Kunwar Singh, 39, had cycled through 18 states and six Union territories. His original plan was to ride 20,000 km in six months, but he expects to exceed both the time limit and the distance.

In early May, Chanchal “Chan” Kunwar Singh was camped at Lady Leg ridge en route the summit of Friendship Peak (5,290m) in Solang Valley near Manali. It was the first of four mountains he hoped to climb on that expedition alongside his partner, Shivam Pandey. After a quick meal, they settled in for the night, only to be stirred by incessant rain that pounded the tent a few hours later.

The downpour lasted for the next two days and the team had to eventually call off the expedition. The disappointment was palpable, but that trip stayed with Chan for different reasons.

“The intensity of the rain is not what you usually see at that time of the year. We expected it to stop at some point, but there was no let up. I have never witnessed anything like it in the mountains before,” Chan says, having grown up in the hill town of Kausani in Uttarakhand.

In search of his next adventure, the 39-year-old decided to set off on a cycling expedition. And having experienced the shifting weather patterns firsthand, he decided to create awareness about climate change during the ride.

“There was never a thought of cycling across India. But I now had a motive to take the message to as many people as I could,” he says.

At the time of publishing on December 24, it’s been 118 days and over 13,000km since Chan started out from Rishikesh on August 28. He’s travelled across 18 states and six Union territories and is now looking to ride in the northeast of India. At every pitstop, he’s tried to meet individuals and organisations who are working in the field of environmental conservation. And when possible, he’s visited schools and colleges to take his message to students.

“I met Ajit Singh Shekhawat in Sikar district of Rajasthan, who has planted 43,000 trees so far. He’s involved everyone from kids to grandmothers in his village of Chhichhas. Another organisation, Sadbhavna Vrudhshashram Trust from Rajkot, has planted 11 lakh trees in Gujarat. I would meet these people to learn about their work and the impact that it has had over the years. And of course, plant a sapling of my own,” he says.

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“Then I met a person from Mysuru, Bharath PN, who has walked from Kanyakumari to Leh to encourage tree plantation. And bumped into other folks who plant a sapling on every birthday. A majority of them have been working in an individual capacity, irrespective of any funding or rewards. It was heartening to hear about their selfless work,” he says.

Chan is no stranger to the world of endurance, having run ultra marathons such as the La Ultra - The High (111km) and Run the Rann (101km) over the last few years. However, distance cycling wasn’t something that he was very comfortable with when he first considered the ride. The longest he had gone at a stretch until then was about 200km. And it hadn’t been fun.

“I struggled with the distance, so I never rode that long again. And to be honest, I’m not that passionate about cycling just yet. The idea was simply to explore the limits of my endurance and this was the perfect opportunity to do so,” he says.

On the eve of the start, he was an anxious wreck and could hardly catch any sleep. The following morning, he struggled with the very first incline after starting out. He got off the bicycle and pushed it till the top. The downhill brought momentary relief, but he soon considered calling the ride off, unsure of how he would tackle the many mountain slopes on the route ahead. It took a massive effort to keep riding, but after the first 10km, he knew there was no looking back.

After the first 10km, he knew there was no turning back.

Riding solo has come with its fair share of challenges. During the early days, the body screamed for rest. Painful saddle sores meant that he once rode 20km while standing on the bicycle. It took a few weeks for him to find his rhythm and settle into the ride, readying for everything that the open road had in store for him.

The longest day has seen him tackle 270km between Delhi and Jaipur. Chan ensures that he meets his daily target, which often means riding post sundown at times. His headlight has often caught signboards that announce the presence of wild cats and elephants. On a few occasions, he’s struggled to find a decent camping spot for the night, until aided by locals.

“I was in a remote village called Chandoosa in Kashmir, where I couldn’t find any places to eat. A shopkeeper took me home and offered me a meal, sharing whatever little the family had. I’ll never forget these moments,” he says.

The next leg of his journey will take Chan through the North-East.

Riding through Tripura gave him a glimpse into what’s in store for him in the weeks ahead. Bad roads, steep inclines and dense jungles are just some of the challenges that await him as he makes his way north to Arunachal Pradesh, before heading back towards the starting point. The entire effort has been taxing, yet he’s certain that the first cup of tea each morning will always be enough motivation to wrap up his tent and get the ride underway.

“I had targeted six months and 20,000km when I started out. But I’m certain to go past those marks, since I’ll take another three months to ride through all the states,” he says.

“I don’t think it’s possible to change everybody’s thought process. But even if one person agrees with me and does their bit for the environment, it will bring about a small change in the time ahead,” he adds.