Goa’s new restaurant: Experience ‘real Thai’ at Fireback, from the makers of Indian Accent

Chef David Thompson, culinary director, Fireback, Goa.

A plate of chopped pineapples liberally-sauced with a mixture tamarind, palm sugar and crushed peanuts is the way best to launch into Fireback — the newest Thai restaurant in Goa from the makers of Indian Accent, Comorin and Hosa. The dish is Fireback’s reimagined version of Som Tam the most popular salad in Thai cuisine. The gorgeously herb-kissed, crunchy assemble is basically a careful Jenga tower of flavours — a sweet-and-sour tug of war between pineapples (unheard of in a Som Tam), fiery fresh chiles, palm sugar and fresh mint leaves. That’s Fireback — Thai but not the Thai you know.

Dinner with a side of views

Dining by the koi fish pond at Fireback, Goa.

Nestled charmingly in a modern glass house hidden behind an old Portuguese bungalow, Fireback is blessed with a picturesque riverside setting in Siolim, Goa. The name of the restaurant refers to the Thai national bird — Siamese Fireback. But it could also be the flames that occasionally leap from the pans of chefs at work here. Once you’re in, the warmth of the woody interiors grounds you and sets the stage for the open-concept kitchen.

Crispy squids with garlic and peppercorn at Fireback, Goa.

There’s something thrilling about witnessing seafood searing on a hot plate, masterful grilling of meats and vegetables, and the elegant plating sequence that adds the finishing touches to what you’re about to eat. There’s also a jaw-dropping, foliage-fringed alfresco where you can dine next to a koi fish pond while gawking at the gorgeously lit St Anthony’s church ahead. Fireback already feels like one of the more coveted Instagrammable restaurants of 2024.

The indoor dinning room at Fireback, Goa.

Interestingly, Fireback is led by legendary chef David Thompson, widely regarded as the world’s foremost non-Thai expert on Thai cuisine. His name may not ring a bell with Indians since he has no restaurants or TV shows here, but Thompson has probably done more than anyone to spread authentic Thai cooking outside of Thailand. In addition to winning all sorts of awards and accolades, he wrote the definitive English language Thai cookbook, Thai Food, plus another on street foods of Thailand. His restaurant Nahm in London was the first Thai eatery ever awarded a Michelin Star, a prestigious honour which it held for nearly a decade. When the Australian-born chef launched Aaharn in Hong Kong in 2020 Michelin saluted the eatery with a star.

Head chef Prantush Rai (from left), culinary director David Thompson and brand chef Swatantra Gautam of Fireback, Goa.

For Fireback, a team of seven chefs led by Brand Chef Swatantra Gautam and head chef Prantush Rai spent over a month in Thailand to learn and unlearn under Thompson. “For a month we only had Thai food for breakfast, lunch and dinner and ate at both the street hawkers and the best restaurants there. We realised that the Thai food we know and were eating in India is not Thai at all. Our stay readied our palate for authentic Thai and we are bringing the same to Fireback,” says Gautam who helmed the kitchen at Khattar’s Oriental Octopus at India Habitat Centre 20 years ago. In a way it’s a home coming for Gautam a maestro of Asian cuisine.

Not that ‘Thai’

The food spread at Fireback, Goa.

For nearly every first-time visitor to Fireback, the experience will be unlike anything they are familiar with in the realm of Thai cuisine, not by a long shot. Consider Tom Kha the most popular soup of Thailand. Fireback’s version involves charred tomatoes which lend the soup a distinctly smoky and earthy edge. Yes, there is familiarity in its cumin and coriander-slicked meat skewers and funky curries with freshly pounded Thai pastes. Yet there is also the feeling of being led into thrilling new territories of flavour and possibility. Like the fantastically fragrant lamb massaman with meltingly tender lamb, squishy stewed shallots, pumpkin and potatoes.

Lamb massaman curry with onions and peanuts at Fireback, Goa.

At once delicate and vigorous, the dish also acts as a jumping-off point for other specialties that give Fireback its character: fried pork belly with charred cabbage. Gautam dredges the chunks lightly in potato starch and fries it for a pervasive, nearly batter-free crispness. There’s a sweet and sour tamarind dip into which you want to plunk the fried nuggets with the glee of children jumping into puddles in the rains.

Red curry with soft-shell crab at Fireback, Goa.

Other stars on the menu include a grilled smoky eggplant with gorlae sauce and a piquant red curry that has a whole soft shell crab poking out of the bowl. The spice level is vigorous but it won’t cause shivers or weeping; Fireback uses chilies to heighten and magnify the contrast of salt and acidity. It’s especially effective in the Thai green curry, usually a mainstay of Thai cuisine that thrill seekers might otherwise overlook. Fireback’s green curry is packed with flavours and has none of the overt sweetness of too much coconut milk.

Green Curry with hearts of palm, cauliflower, babycorn at Fireback, Goa.

The zealous commitment to detail extends to the drinks that incorporate traditional Thai ingredients like galangal, tamarind, basil, lime leaf and pandan into inventive modern cocktails. One of them even comes with a whole rose encased in an ice cube.

Cocktail Rose at Fireback, Goa, comes with a whole rose encased in an ice cube.

If you care at all about excitement and vigour in dining, you will be plotting your next trip to Fireback even before the bill has been brought over.

Address: Irada Home, Near St Anthony’s Church, Vaddy, Siolim – Bardez, North Goa. For reservations call: 9209717970. Meal for two: Rs 2,500 food only, Rs 3,500 with a cocktail each