Bengali New Year: 8 Kolkata eateries for best dal and bhaja this Poila Baisakh

The Bengali new year is synonymous with new clothes, copious amounts of food, festivities and family gatherings.

The Bengali new year is synonymous with new clothes, copious amounts of food, festivities and family gatherings — this is also when traders and businessmen open a new khero’r khata or ledger book to keep note of their transactions. But historically speaking, there are two theories about the introduction of the Bengali calender.

One states that it was introduced in 1584 AD to help with the collection of land taxes post-spring harvest during Akbar’s regime and the other one points to King Shashanka of Gauda who introduced the Bangabdo on April 12, 594 AD, which also coincided with his year of coronation, thus marking the new year.

For us city dwellers, noboborsho (new year) marks the beginning of summer and we can vividly recall Esho hey boishakh playing out in speakers at every para (local neighbourhood). We Bengalis, like it or not, absolutely love to indulge ourselves gastronomically and when it’s the new year, there’s certainly no two ways about it. The trifecta — bhaat, dal, and bhaja (fritters) is the undisputed champion of any Bengali meal and while we have all waxed poetic about a fish qalia or kosha mangsho too often, let us take a minute to appreciate the OG — dal and bhaja, a constant on our plates.

Listed below are places that dish out some seriously good stuff, so, pull out that tant er saree or Dhakai Jamdani (block print kurta and pyjama if you’re a guy) and head out. Like a true-blue Bong, don’t forget the bhaat ghum (afternoon siesta) after.

Saptapadi

Rightfully named after the iconic movie from 1961 starring Uttam Kumar and Suchitra Sen in the lead roles (a yesteryear Bengali hot favourite), Saptapadi boasts a wide array of dishes and is one of the best in the city.

Feel free to pick from à la carte or try their range of thalis if you want to sample everything.

We feel particularly good about the Khowa Badam er Chop (fried milk dumplings with nuts), Muri Fish Stick (fish fingers coated with Bengal spices and fried with puffed rice), and Murgi Chire Chepta (chicken strips coated with Bengal spices and fried with flat rice), which can be paired with Dal Manohara. For the mains, do not sleep on the Gondhoraj Murgi (chicken).

The Bengali thali at Saptapadi, Kolkata. (Photo via Instagram)

Kasturi

Touted as one of the more authentic restaurants in the city, particularly in terms of Bangladeshi cuisine, Kasturi is a safe bet if you do not want to get adventurous.

Kasturi is one of the more authentic Bangladeshi cuisine eateries in Kolkata. (Photo via Zomato website)

While we love the outlet near Ballygunge for the location (Mandeville Gardens is rather lovely), we recommend ordering the Hilsa fry, Fish fry, Aloo bhaja (always), and a killer Dhakai Dal fry to amp up the subtle flavours. Also, get the Murgi (chicken) Sheel e Bata as a side. With a no-frills attitude, Kasturi is basic in terms of aesthetics but is bang on bucks any day.

Koshe Kosha

Koshe Kosha is moderately popular with the locals and with multiple outlets across the city, hunting for one of them on Noboborsho shouldn’t be difficult even with the afternoon rush. The interior décor with visual motifs inspired from rural Bengal and of Bengali celebrities and the kheror khata (ledger)-style menu is sure to set the mood.

Koshe Kosha's kosha mangsho and basanti pulao, a Bengali New Year staple. (Photo via Zomato website)

They are famed especially for their Basanti (yellow) Pulao and Kosha Mangsho which you must try. But before you dig in any further, we implore you to try the bhajas, namely the Bhetki Chingri Melbondhon (bhetki cutlet stuffed with minced prawns), Pur diye Begun bhaja (spice-stuffed-fried eggplant), Dim Chingri Devil (egg and prawn devil), and Mocha’r Chop (banana blossom fritter) — all of which pairs brilliantly with the moong dal.

Kolkata Rajbari

The Bengali Zamindari system has been a constant source of inspiration for restaurants in the city and Kolkata Rajbari in Ballygunge is no exception. It does have a few quirks that set it apart from others — one being that the guests are ushered into the restaurant with much pomp and grandeur, hence, listing this feels quite fitting given the occasion. One can choose from a set meal or make a beeline for à la carte — we suggest ordering the Machher matha diye dal (moong dal cooked with fish head), and a mélange of fritters, namely, Beguni (batter-fried eggplant), Kumro phool bhaja (batter-fried pumpkin flowers), and the Posto’r bora (poppy-seed fritters). For the mains, do get the Rajbarir Pulao and Chingri (Prawn) Malaicurry.

Aaheli

Although slightly on the steeper side, a meal at Aaheli is sure to win you over, or your date.  Ideally, reserving a table at the outlet inside Peerless Inn is preferable, but you can also head to the second outlet on Sarat Bose Road.

From the aesthetics to the menu and cutlery, Aaheli in Kolkata is an extravagant affair and its food bears testimony to the same. (Photo via Zomato website)

From the aesthetics to the menu and cutlery, it is an extravagant affair and the food bears testimony to the same. Begin with the Gondhoraj pudinar shorbot and move on to the Murgi bhaja (chicken fry), Bhetki cutlet, and Til Mochar lotika (sesame banana blossom fritter). Pair that with aromatic Gobindobhog rice and moong dal for maximum satisfaction.

C/o Bangali

If you want a historic North Kolkata backdrop, this one fits the bill. Bang opposite Star Theatre, C/o Bangali is a good choice around the Hatibagan area which is already teeming with a cultural flair and literature enthusiasts aplenty. Dig into the no-fuss Bhetki Fry, Jhuri Aloo bhaja and Begun (eggplant) bhaja that pairs beautifully with a bowl of golden yellow moong dal and bhaat. We cannot think of anything better — actually, round off the experience with a movie at Star Theatre. Thank us later!

Babu Culture

Tucked away in the quiet corners of Dover Lane, Babu Culture is one of a kind in the city. The name is a play on the bygone era of the upper-class Bengali babus (gentry) and their larger-than-life dietary habits.

Try the Paarshe’r Ekchapi (crumb fried Indian mullet) and Mangshor Chop (mutton cutlets) at Babu Culture, Kolkata. (Photo via Zomato website)

The interiors have a heavy-handed use of Kalighat paintings across the walls, in a nod to the era, and even make their presence felt on the menu. Try the Pui Chingri’r bora (prawn and malabar spinach fritter), Paarshe’r Ekchapi (crumb fried Indian mullet) and Mangshor Chop (mutton chop), alongside the Chingri (prawn) diye Masoor dal.

Bhooter Raja Dilo Bor

If you cannot already tell, this one is a straight-up Satyajit Ray-inspired restaurant — with excerpts from the movie Goopy Gyne Bagha Byne (1969) inscribed across the walls as murals.

Bhooter Raja Dilo Bor is a straight-up Satyajit Ray-inspired restaurant, with excerpts from the movie Goopy Gyne Bagha Byne (1969) inscribed on its walls.

The lighting isn’t the best but we aren’t complaining. Begin your meal with the Topshe fry (mango fish), Mourola machher peyaji (mola carplet fritters), alongside Knacha aam er tok dal (dal cooked with unripe mangoes). Given the current weather, we recommend the Doi diye bhapa Murgi (chicken cooked in a yogurt gravy) for the mains to beat the heat.

Note: Restaurants that couldn’t make it to the list but deserve a shout out nevertheless are 6 Ballygunge Place, Sonar Tori and Himur Hneshel. That being said, let’s raise a toast to the new year. Shubho Noboborsho, folks!