Cheer of the banshees in Ireland’s west coast, where the Oscar-nominated film was shot

Aran Islands, Oileáin Árann, Inishmore. (Photo: Paola Franco via Unsplash)

Standing on the west coast of Ireland, with the North Atlantic Ocean spread out to eternity in front, and craggy, grassy landscape behind, it feels a bit overwhelming. For much of the year, but especially during winter, cold winds whip up waves and lash them to the shore. There’s a kind of fierce beauty to it all that is untamed and quite spectacular. With the wild success of The Banshees of Inisherin (three Goldens Globes and four BAFTAs), a tragicomedy set on the Irish west coast, the region is back in focus. The movie is being hailed as an advertisement for Ireland even as all eyes are now on the Academy Awards scheduled for March 12; the movie has received nine nominations, including the prestigious categories of Best Picture and Best Director.

A still from the Oscar-nominated film 'Banshees of Inisherin', shot in Inishmore, off the west coast of Ireland.

From the beach near Galway, the Arans, a set of three islands, are just a blip on vast thalassic expanse. The biggest and farthest of the three — Inishmore (Inis Mor in Irish) — is the location of the fictional Inisherin. Up close, it’s a different matter altogether. Sheer weathered mossy vertical cliffs line the coast against which the ocean froths, exuding a raw magnificence. Literally meaning big island in Irish, Inishmore packs breathtaking beauty with rolling hills, highlands and wilderness. But it is known more for the profusion of Celtic, pre-Christian and Chrisian era monuments; the most mystical and striking is the Dun Aonghasa, a set of pre-historic hill forts overlooking the sea on the Southern coast. But just driving along the island’s roads is rewarding in itself. Winding roads interspersed with pretty houses and cottages, panoramic views, meadows and farms, historic sites interspersed with churches, scattered villages and hamlets...it is idyllic.

Inishmore Island, off Ireland's west coast. (Photo via Unsplash)

Even though Inishmore might have been the inspiration for Inisherin, Achill Island to the North of Galway is where a big part of the movie has been shot.

Here too, the island is filled with pristine natural beauty and historical monuments that go back centuries including deserted villages, archaeological digs that have revealed ancient settlements, monasteries and churches.

And wandering around the island will quickly reveal familiar scenes from the movies. There’s even a movie trail promoted by the local tourism board that people can follow.

A still from the Oscar-nominated film 'Banshees of Inisherin', shot in Inishmore, Ireland.

On Achill’s Southeastern corner is Cloughmore, where the pub was constructed. The setting has been pulled down but it is easy to imagine the characters of Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson seated at the wooden table outside the pub and conversing against the backdrop of the seascape and the grasslands on the other side. From here, it is just a few minutes’ walk to the fork which is the location of the state of the Virgin Mary. The statue was a prop and there is no fork either, but the strategic location provides stunning panoramic views. No surprise then that it features in many road scenes throughout the movie.

Inishmore cross, Inishmore, Aran Isles, County Galway, Ireland. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

On the other side of the island, on the Northern shore is Dugort where the 19th century St. Thomas Church is located and was the setting for Mass scenes in the film. Replete with forlorn beauty, standing stark against flatlands and the beach, the building and its grounds with graves is a wonderful place for quiet contemplation, though visitors are cautioned to be respectful since it is a working church.

Galway, Ireland. (Photo: Chan Hyuk Moon via Unsplash)

Heading West from Cloughmore, the coastal road makes for a fabulous driving experience, with unending ocean on one side and bucolic scenes interspersed with habitations on the other. The road leads to Purteen harbour, located between the villages of Keel and Pollagh. It is relatively flat with scattered hills in the backdrop and rolling meadows. The area was transformed into a seaside street with cottage facades, a shop and even a post office. There’s nothing much to show for it now but the seaside scene is spectacular on its own.

Inishmore island, Ireland. (Photo: Peter Aschoff via Unsplash)

It is only apt to set aside the best place for last. Further West from Purteen Harbour is Keem Bay, which is not just Achill’s best beach but probably among the best in Ireland. Tall undulating hills and plateaus, green with wild flowers, gradually drop down to the coast where a narrow strip of beach looks out to azure waters. It is against this backdrop that Brendan Gleeson’s character Colm Doherty’s home is located. This is also where the final scene is set.

Keem Bay, located past Dooagh village in the west of Achill Island in County Mayo, Ireland. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Now that the sets have gone, Keem Bay is back to its rugged beauty. Boulders and stones line the path leading to the water’s edge; a lone shack, a set of wooden benches and tables are the only other fixtures. The film might be a grim tale of violence and despondence, but Keem’s incredible splendour suffuses one with serenity that belies the film’s heavy emotions and makes for a worthwhile journey.