Kolkata's hilsa dilemma: Myanmar & Gujarat fish fill void as Bangladesh supply dries up

Hilsa Ilish

Kolkata’s famed love affair with hilsa is undergoing an unexpected shift this season, with fish from Myanmar’s Irrawaddy and Gujarat’s Narmada gaining traction among buyers who once swore by the superior taste of Bangladesh’s Padma or West Bengal’s Rupnarayan varieties.

According to a TOI report, around 60 tonnes of hilsa from Gujarat have been arriving daily in Kolkata over the past five days, with prices ranging between Rs 900 and Rs 1,400 per kg, depending on whether the fish contains eggs. Meanwhile, frozen stocks from Myanmar, previously retailing at Rs 1,400–Rs 1,600 per kg, have been moved to cold storage to make way for the fresh catch.

As per TOI, Howrah Wholesale Fish Market secretary Syed Anwar Maqsood confirmed that 625 tonnes of Myanmar hilsa are currently stored in Bengal’s cold facilities. Smaller local catches from Diamond Harbour and Digha, weighing around 500 grams, are also available at Rs 600–Rs 800 per kg, while larger specimens fetch up to Rs 1,800.

The shift comes amid uncertainty over whether Bangladesh will export its prized Padma hilsa to India this year due to strained bilateral relations. Traditionally, the Bangladeshi variety arrives ahead of Durga Puja, selling at a premium of Rs 1,800–Rs 2,200 per kg. However, traders and consumers are now preparing for a possible shortage.

Sajal Mitra, a businessman shopping at Gariahat market, was cited by TOI: “There is no point waiting for Padma hilsa. I purchased a 1.5kg Myanmar hilsa two weeks ago and loved it. This morning, I have come to buy a hilsa from Gujarat.”

Amar Das, a Lake Market trader, noted that while Kolkatans usually prefer local or Padma hilsa, the buzz around the Bangladeshi catch is missing this year. “There are indications that Bangladesh may not send any hilsa consignment at all,” he said.

Bangladeshi exporters have hinted at tighter supplies. Kazi Mannan, a fish exporter, said this year’s catch has been smaller, with wholesale prices soaring to 2,200–2,500 taka per kg (Rs 2,000–Rs 2,300), making it unviable for the Indian market. Rabindranath Barman of the Bangladesh Fishermen Association added that while hilsa is being exported to the US, Dubai and the Middle East, shipments to India remain uncertain, TOI reported.

Despite the challenges, Maqsood remains optimistic, citing diplomatic channels. “Bangladesh cannot do without India. India cannot do without Bangladesh,” he said, revealing that talks with Bangladeshi officials in Kolkata and Delhi had been positive.

However, West Bengal fisheries minister Biplab Roy Chowdhury, as cited by TOI, struck a cautious note, admitting that Bangladeshi traders are wary of controversy. “Efforts are being made to communicate. Let’s see what happens in the end,” he said.