Floating in a hot air balloon is the most surreal way to see the Ganga

Balloons gliding over the ghats in Varanasi.

Varanasi with its mystical vibe, reverberating sounds and loud colours is pretty incredible on its own. But it gets even more captivating when you see it from the basket of a hot-air balloon 1,000 ft above the ground. Within minutes of taking off from the Central Hindu Boys School ground we are drifting over the bustling ghats just above the boats which are rocking gently in the lap of Ganga.

The rising sun has set the sky ablaze and the air is thick with the jangle of temple bells, conch shells and reverberating chants. It’s almost surreal. Though this is my second time flying in a hot-air balloon over Varanasi, the charm and amazement is still the same. Hot-air ballooning in Varanasi was launched in 2021 by the Uttar Pradesh government to boost tourism and provide a unique way to experience the spiritual city.

View of the hot air balloons from a boat in Varanasi. (Photo courtesy UP Tourism)

Since hot-air ballooning takes place at sunrise, the only less-than-blissful part of the experience is the required, chilly pre-dawn wake-up (typically around 4 am, when stars still blanket the sky). This year 10 balloons piloted by balloonists from six countries took to the sky. The process to get a hot-air balloon up and running is an elaborate one — their arrival, spreading them out, filling up with air, firing them up and finally getting them up in the air.

Take-off is pretty noisy, as the pilot uses repeated heat blasts to send the balloon airborne. But once you rise to your cruising height (in Varanasi, we floated at 1,000 ft), the flame burners are cut, and you drift in sudden, enthralling quietness. The quiet is only interrupted as the pilot ignites the burner and sends more hot air into the balloon. My fellow basket buddies described the experience as near-spiritual.

Varanasi landmarks as seen from a hot air balloon. (Photo: Nivedita Jayaram Pawar)

After the first 20 minutes, the scenery changes. Now we are drifting over the ancient city’s labyrinthine passageways and inner courtyards where children play cricket and women hang laundry. It’s still quiet, but starkly different from the hustle bustle of the ghats. There are no fixed routes in ballooning. The wind dictates the direction the pilot takes you in. After an hour, our balloon piloted by Hugo Hall from England landed in a barren field adjoining a road.

Boat racing

Kashi balloon and boat festival 2023. (Photo: Nivedita Jayaram Pawar)

Hot-air ballooning is not the only new addition to the myriad attractions of Varanasi. There’s also an IPL-style boat race which aims to take the cultural landmark of Varanasi, its fabled naukas or boats and package it as an adventure sport for the high-end traveller. Twelve traditional boats raced from Dashashwamedh Ghat to Rajghat covering a total stretch of 3 km amid cheers from both locals and tourists. The state tourism department aims to turn the races into an annual event with a prize money of Rs 1.75 lakh to the winning team.

Ready to take to the skies? Here’s what you need to keep in mind

Hot-air ballooning is heavily weather dependent. Be prepared for cancellations if it rains or if the wind is too strong.

Balloon baskets aren’t very roomy. My basket had six other people. There is some space for manoeuvring, but not much. It's best to find your spot and stick to it. The pilot rotates the balloon so you can get the full 360-degree experience.

Hot air balloons over Varanasi. (Photo: Nivedita Jayaram Pawar)

Limit what you carry along. There is no room to place your belongings at your feet in a fully-loaded basket.

The basket hardly sways. So, you can relax.

Dress appropriately as there might be some jostling and a small jump to get out of the basket. Skirts and dresses may be a little impractical for the affair.

Bring a camera (but, maybe, leave the DSLR at home). When it comes to hot-air ballooning, GoPro is the way to go.

Don’t forget the sunblock.