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How to see Moscow, like you've seen it in the movies and read about in books

Scale and a sense of history make these places in the Russian capital look and feel cinematic: don't miss the Kremlin complex, the Bolshoi Theatre, Zaryadye Park, a cruise on the 100 km-long Moskva River, and food at restaurants the locals love.

November 05, 2023 / 14:50 IST
St Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow. Legend has it that its builder was blinded post-construction so that a structure of its beauty could never be built again. (Photo by Vierro via Pexels)

There's visual stimulation all around at Moscow’s Red Square, the Russian capital’s iconic plaza. Legendary landmarks we've read about in books or seen in movies. The Kremlin, Lenin's Mausoleum, St Basil's Cathedral, State Historical Museum, the Kazan Cathedral…all sprinkling gold dust on this UNESCO World Heritage Site that has shaped Russia’s turbulent history.

Handsome street performers ambling around on the Square’s cobbled streets in all their sartorial splendor, are posing with visitors for a fee. Souvenir kiosks brimming with wares are drawing shopaholics. Selfie-snapping tourists are swarming the area in droves. There’s enough kinetic energy to power a ship.

State Historical Museum, Red Square, Moscow (Photo by Yogesh YK via Pexels) State Historical Museum, Moscow (Photo by Yogesh YK via Pexels)

Indeed Moscow weaves a thrilling tapestry of artistry, history and majesty with its splendid art and architecture and high-wattage atmospherics.

Everything in the city of 13 million people is on an uber-scale. The museums are gigantic, parks gargantuan, urban vistas stretch for miles and metro stations mimic subterranean mazes. Among the city’s 10,000 cultural venues are 400 museums, 900 parks, libraries, cinemas, film studios, theaters and concert halls. The scale is fitting indeed for the capital of a country that ranks as the world’s largest at 17 million square km - it is twice the size of the United States and spans 11 time zones!

Kremlin: Considered the beating heart of Moscow, the Kremlin is a sprawling, terracotta-hued complex. It is the nucleus of Russia’s political power, holding in its bowels four magnificent palaces and four cathedrals of varying sizes built between the 14th and 19th centuries and each with their own fascinating history, museums, cannons, and soaring towers.

The Grand Kremlin Palace, the official residence of the President, isn’t accessible to the public, but makes for a great photo-op, nevertheless.

Ditto for the adjoining St Basil’s Cathedral with its colourful domes and vivid redbrick towers. Legend has it that its builder was blinded post-construction so that a structure of its beauty could never be built again.

In Moscow (Photo by дмитрий-трепольский via Pexels) In Moscow (Photo by дмитрий-трепольский via Pexels)

Zaryadye Park: An architectural marvel that straddles a floating bridge overlooking the city, the park is a V-shaped 70-metre structure suspended over the Moskva river without any support. Nip up to its breezy top to soak in a breathtaking panorama of the city and snap selfies, of course. Also nestling within the park complex is an ice cave, a modern amphitheatre with a glass roof, a concert hall and a multimedia centre that screens an adrenaline-spiking 4D film showcasing Russia’s premier attractions. Highly recommended.

River Cruise: After a giddy cultural whirl, a cruise on the 100 km-long Moskva River is exceptional for the inactivity it induces. As the ship glides on the glutinous waterbody, sit back and savour the scenery, listen to mellifluous music played onboard and tuck into delicious snacks and wines. Before disembarking, don’t forget to get a photo clicked by an onboard photographer for a small fee as a memento.

Gastronomy: Moscow serves up a captivating cocktail of sensory experiences in its charming cafes, hi-end restaurants and bars. Try Bagebi, a sprawling eatery named after a region in Georgia that’s home to the legendary Georgia-born artist Zurab Konstatinovich Tsereteli who now lives in Moscow. It offers excellent Georgian cuisine in a modern avatar. The décor mimics an art gallery and the congenial servers will take you around to view the displayed paintings and sculptures that belong to the Tsereteli family. The food and wines (produced the traditional way in UNESCO-endorsed kvevris) are a treat for the taste buds.

Those with deeper pockets can reserve a table at the two-Michelin star Twins’ Garden, that also features in the World’s 50 best eateries. Founded by twin brothers (hence its moniker) Ivan and Sergey Berezutsky, it serves creative and hi-tech Russian delicacies. Dishes are developed in the restaurant’s laboratory combining gastronomy with science: products are fermented, food printed with a 3D printer and freeze dried to wow guests.

Oenophiles shouldn’t miss the one-Michelin star Grand Cru restaurant, a “wine-minded” eatery helmed by the gifted Chef David Hemmerlé. Think scallop crudo with a tomato heart and avocado; sea bass ceviche with cucumber salad, yellow tomatoes, and sweet potato puree, etc. Tipples come from vineyards in the South of France, a region famous for a terroir that produces finely balanced wines.

Grand Cru restaurant in Moscow. (Photo by Neeta Lal) Grand Cru restaurant in Moscow. (Photo by Neeta Lal)

Greek food enthusiasts should head to Kefi, a cozy and convivial eatery in downtown Moscow with an artsy décor that serves inventive Mediterranean fare.

Xolodok, a seafood bistro, is the place for translucent caviar, oysters, scallops, squids and scampi that smell of the ocean. Dig in and raise a toast to life’s finer things.

Museums: Moscow's rich history is best showcased through its fascinating array of museums and art galleries. While exploring all of them is impossible, the Zurab Tsereteli Art Gallery, a tribute to the genius of one of Russia's most celebrated and controversial artists - Zurab Tsereteli – is a must visit. Among its mindboggling collection are hundreds of oils, sculptures, murals and installations created by the octogenarian artist acknowledged universally as a cause celebre among a pantheon of Russian greats.

Zurab Tsereteli at work (Photo by Neeta Lal) Zurab Tsereteli at work (Photo by Neeta Lal)

Also worth a dekko is the Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), the first Russian museum of modern art and the country’s first state museum. Walk along its spiffy, marble-sque corridors to view excellently curated Russian art of the 20th and 21st centuries as well as works of some Western masters like Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro, Giorgio De Chirico, Salvador Dalí, Armand, Henri Rousseau and Françoise Gilot. Executive Director Vasili Tsereteli has transformed MMOMA into a vibrant institution, expanding it from its original one venue to six today, all of which play a vital role on Moscow’s art scene.

Bolshoi Theatre (Photo by Azamat Hatypov via Pexels) Bolshoi Theatre (Photo by Azamat Hatypov via Pexels)

The Bolshoi Theatre: Bolshoi, meaning 'big’ in Russian, is the largest theatre in the country, and one of the world’s most significant. Since 1824, it has been serving as Russia's national theatre. Indeed, if opera and ballet are what make your heart sing, this is the place to be. The building’s classical architecture, historic stage, glamorous interiors and top-notch acoustics create an alchemy of soaring sound and motion. So proud are the Russians of the Bolshoi that the building’s neo-classical façade has been reproduced on the 100-ruble note. The performances are mostly of Russian origin, but foreign ones too are occasionally part of the mix which adds to the theater’s universal and inclusive appeal.

Neeta Lal is an independent lifestyle and travel writer. Views expressed are personal.
first published: Nov 5, 2023 02:41 pm

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