Delivery Diaries: Broths or ice creams — the winter food ordering conundrum

This is reflected in our food delivery orders, too, where rasam and other soups witness a significant uptick in orders during the winter months in North India. Now, food connoisseurs may be appalled at the categorisation of rasam as a soup, but that's how it is consumed, especially in the months of November and December. The most popular soup in food delivery orders, however, is Manchow Soup. Much like French Fries (other than Thomas Jefferson's oblique comment at a White House dinner, that potatoes were served the French way, there isn't much to suggest that French Fries emerged in France), one is unlikely to find this soup anywhere in the Manchurian province of China (or, for that matter, anywhere on the Chinese mainland!), but in India, it is quite a star, with its non-veg and veg versions consistently emerging as a very popular item on Swiggy Food. It appears that its ingredients, which include winter vegetables such as carrots, spring onions, and peas, and its thickened gingery broth, appeal to the Indian palate, especially in winters, when it is perceived as an antidote to cold-related ailments. Thukpa, the great soup of our hills, with its own Meghalayan, Himachali, Nepalese, and Tibetan versions, also sees a significant surge in winters, with orders going up by 15 per cent.

The fact that there is considerable demand for soup orders on our platform in winter also exhibits in the order timings. Until October, most dinner orders start between 7 pm and 8 pm, while in the winter months of December and January, they start as early as 6 pm, with the soups and broths often being a component of early orders, providing the comforting first course.

A seemingly puzzling absence from the list of most popular soups ordered is the good old tomato soup. Its ubiquity on menus doesn't translate into popularity on food delivery platforms. In the pecking order of most popular soups, a list that includes Manchow, Rasam, Sweet Corn, and Chicken Clear, tomato soup doesn't find a mention.

But then, tomatoes have a record of defying traditional wisdom throughout history, with the most delightful anecdote coming from American jurisprudence, where its taxability (tomato was imported into the United States) was argued against, because the tax was levied on vegetables, and biologically, a tomato is a fruit. The wise judge famously remarked that if a tomato can't be used in a dessert, then, for tax purposes, it should be construed as a vegetable.

Speaking of desserts, the advent of winter is clearly conspicuous in this category. Gajar Halwa, that delightful wintery sweet dish, witnessed an 880 per cent surge in December. Sesame (Til) Ladoos (a winter-specific dish with its proven therapeutic properties) witnessed a surge of 1600 per cent from November to December. Pinnis, while perennial favourites, see a surge of 200 per cent in winter months - understandably so, as these ghee and nut-laden dollops do an excellent job of satiating the taste buds as well as fortifying the body's immunity.

No prizes for guessing that desserts served cold, such as rasgullas and kulfis, see almost a 50 per cent decline during winters. The curious case, however, is that of ice creams. While the seasonal variation of demand in ice cream is still in favour of summers, at an industry level, the delta of that variation is reducing. In certain months, ice cream sales defy traditional wisdom. In 2022, for instance, ice cream sales went up by 61 per cent from November to December - a trend that wasn't skewed by sales in cities south of the Tropic of Cancer (with less winter intensity). By and large, the trend stayed in North and East Indian cities, too, which witness severe winters in December and January.

There are multiple reasons behind this - one is that ice cream as a category has proliferated, and I must credit the new generation of ice cream and patisserie entrepreneurs who have expanded the variety and its usage. NOTO, Apsara, Tangelo, Zimero, and Frozen Fun have created such wide menus of ice creams that there is always something to titillate your taste buds. Credit is also due to older chains like Nirula's, Natural's, and Baskin Robbins, who have introduced a wide spectrum of flavours. Sitaphal (custard apple) ice cream, for example, witnesses its highest sales in winters, because the fruit is available largely in winters. Similarly, there is nothing plain vanilla about vanilla ice cream, as confectionery and sweet shops haven't been averse to introducing its permutations with warm dishes - be it chocolate brownie, gulab jamuns, hot pies, or even gajar halwa - combinations people like to replicate at home, once they have tasted it at their favourite patisseries or coffee shops. Larger refrigerator sizes, the frequent parties and gatherings in December, are other contributing factors behind ice cream's appeal on food delivery platforms that transcends the seasons. Once you are ensconced in the comfort of a cosy, warm room, watching films with friends and family, an ice cream of your favourite flavour will certainly add to the experience.

As we progress towards the holiday season and the new year, I assure you that there will be several more varieties of ice cream, and its delectable combinations, for you to order. We at Swiggy will ensure that every day is a Sundae. A small request, though - the delivery partner who is coming to deliver that ice cream parcel for you has braved the biting cold. While we are doing our bit by providing warm jackets, kits, and festival surges, it will be great if you can show your acknowledgement by adding a tip (we transfer it entirely to the delivery partner) to your orders, as well. I assure you that your small contribution will bring a large, warm smile to their faces.

Merry Christmas, and a happy new year!

Until we meet again,

Rohit.