Tripura: Where to see Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava, the 30 ft sculpture of Lord Shiva's head in North-East India?

Tripura's Unakoti, famously known as Angkor Wat of the Northeast, is a sculptural emblem and ancient Shaivite place that hosts rock carvings figures and images of gods and goddesses. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Located 170km north-east of Tripura's capital Agartala, deep within dense forests, Unakoti is a sprawling site of surreal and gigantic rock-cut sculptures and bas-reliefs going back 1,200 years. So much so that it is has earned the moniker of Angkor Wat of the Northeast. Unakoti is currently on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Unakoti bas-relief rock-cut hills showing Hindu deities like Lord Shiva's head, Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava, Tripura. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Essentially a Shaivite site spread over 150 acres with flowing streams and rivulets, Unakoti has various sculptures spread all over the eponymous hill, connected by winding paths, flights of stairs and bridges. The most striking feature is a 30ft-tall sculpted Shiva head, Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava, that is surrounded by scores of other gods and goddesses. The name literally means one less than a crore, and it is believed that there are 99,99,999 sculptures and carvings or bas-reliefs of divine creatures, all of which has prompted the Cambodian comparison.

Swirling in mythology

Hindu deities on Unakoti hills, Tripura. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

According to legend, there’s a story behind this. It is said that Lord Shiva embarked on a pilgrimage, though there is some dispute whether the destination was Varanasi or Vrindavan near Mathura. He descended from the Himalayas and was accompanied by millions of celestial beings, together amounting to a crore. They stopped at this place for the night and he went to sleep after instructing them to rise before dawn to continue the journey. But the next morning, he found all of them fast asleep. Angered, he cursed them into stone images and carried on alone. And hence the name – Unakoti (una means one short of, and koti is crore) one less than a crore. A huge fair called Ashokashtami Mela is held every year to commemorate the day which coincides with the month of April, attended by thousands of faithful.

There’s also a tribal story around Unakoti which involves a local tribal, Kallu, a devotee of Parvati. Determined to accompany her and Shiva to their abode in Mount Kailash, he undertook a penance. Impressed, Parvati was agreeable to taking him and convinced her husband; Shiva relented but on the condition that Kallu carved one crore images of him in one night. By morning, Kallu thought he had accomplished the job but was short of one and had failed, so had to remain on earth.

Sculptural landscape

Unakoti hills, Tripura. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Myths and legends apart, the history behind these carvings is shrouded in mystery. It is speculated that they might have come into existence sometime during the 8th and 9th centuries AD but very little research exists about its antecedents. However, what is indisputable is the stunning nature of the sculptures and carvings, etched into the sides of the hill and scattered all over the area, set against the surrounding lush greenery. There is also some speculation that the thick jungles might be hiding many more undiscovered sculptures and carvings.

The images can broadly be classified into two categories, according to the descriptor on the UNESCO site – “a) Majestic rock-cut images on the vertical surface of the hill and fallen boulders and b) loose sculptures of smaller and medium sizes scattered on the hill.” The massive Shiva head fall in the first category, with a vertical third eye, and whose head is crowned by a 10-foot head dress embellished with tribal art. It is flanked by Durga on a lion and another female figure as well as trident and images of Nandi.

But there’s much more to see. Such as Shiva as Gangadhara and several other versions with ornaments, embellishments, weapons and adornments that depict him as part of various mythological stories such as Harihara, Uma Maheshwara and from the Kamadahana story. Other sculptures, figurines and carvings include a massive 7m-tall Ganesha, Vishnu, Durga, male and female celestial creatures, characters such as Hidimba, animals such as elephants, tortoises, and others.

Ganesha bas-relief hill, Unakoti, Tripura. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

The main hill and surrounding hillocks are also scattered with loose stone sculptures of Ganesha, Hara, Gauri, Narasimha, Hanuman, Vishnu, Shivalingas and other deities. Uniquely, the anatomical features of several of the characters are treated differently, without any attempt at harmony or proportion. This aspect as well as the depiction of ornaments make them striking but also point to the influence of local indigenous traditions.

Indra bas-relief hill Unakoti, Tripura. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Interestingly, there is also some speculation regarding the influence of Tantric Buddhism in the stylisation and technique used in the sculptures, as well as passing references. Such as use of Buddhist motifs and depiction of Bodhisattvas, which suggest that related religious sects might have been present in the region. But what’s not in doubt is that site is both eye-opening and breathtaking.