Anant Ambani wedding: Deepika Padukone's saree was 'inspired from architecture of purana hindostan', explains designer

Deepika Padukone's saree takes inspiration from the 16th century architecture of Hyderabad’s Chowmahalla Palace, and the Chaukhandi tombs of Karachi.

It took a total of 3,400 man hours to custom-make the purple zardozi-dabka-doria saree Bollywood actor Deepika Padukone wore to Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant's wedding on July 12, 2024. Kiara Advani's garment, by the same atelier, took a whopping 10,000 hours to craft. In a conversation with Moneycontrol, a spokesperson for Torani Atelier detailed the techniques and histories embodied in these garments. Excerpts:

How was it designing for Deepika Padukone and Kiara Advani for Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant's wedding?

For Deepika Padukone

She has been a muse for Torani since time immemorial - not just because of the actor that she is but also because of the woman that she is. Her work as mental health advocate, as an entrepreneur, even the kind of roles she picks up - it’s always appreciated and she’s also personally attached to the brand. She has bought many garments from us for her family and friends, and celebrities rarely do that. And now that she’s on the verge of motherhood, we wanted to bring out that vibrance and dignified nature of her - the ‘Queen mother’ as many people have commented on this look.

This one is from our next collection - Leela, which is inspired from architecture of purana hindostan. So the saree had these strong structural lines on the palla, that were almost framing the paan, dil, eent and chidi motifs, making it an art piece. It’s crafted in custom bejeweled purple onto handspun organza, and is one of the most cherished designs at the Torani Atelier.

There is handcrafted work done in suchha zardoz and hand embroidered doria, as well as dabka. The accompanying blouse is inspired from the traditional rajputana chaniya choli, while the chidi motifs in suchha zardoz and pure motia handwoven tassels add a modern chic to it.

The Saree took more than 3,400 man hours to come to life. It takes inspiration from the 16th century architecture of Hyderabad’s Chowmahalla Palace, and the Chaukhandi tombs of Karachi.

For Kiara Advani

Kiara is wearing our Chandramallika lehenga from ‘Leela’, and the colours of this one are extremely lush and beautiful. The raani pink choli, the phaalsa-like purple of the skirt, and the peacock purple odhna. The lehenga is resplendent and the lush tones are complemented with the suchha zardoz and heritage dabka work, along with sequin and motia embellished by hand. It’s actually a very maximal look, with almost a bridal trousseau or engagement kind of opulence to it. But someone like Kiara made it softer and made it more transitional.

The choli is inspired from the rajputana choli, which has always been a part of the romantic tradition of Indian art, literature, poetry - even of Bollywood. Leela’s cholis are reminiscent of that romance. This garment is also one of the heaviest pieces we’ve ever made, with almost 10,000 man hours going into bringing it to life.

How has the Ambani wedding given a boost to the fashion industry?

I think, not only the fashion industry, but this wedding has given a boost to all our industries. We’re a country which survives through these festivals - its these festivals that keep us foolproof even during the big recessions that hit the world so often now. We can’t survive without our weddings, or our Diwali, or our Eid. And this series of events is also like Diwali, isn’t it? And I say that with pride because while one can criticise the opulence at length, one also needs to realise the employment this event is generating, the global recognition it is achieving - of not only Indian names and people, but also of the Indian crafts and capabilities. The wealth is not just sitting in one place in one bank but reaching the house of multiple craftsmen and artisans -be it musicians, artisans, decor, florists, and people of myriad other professions - what’s better than that?

How has Toranis done in the quarter thanks to the wedding season in 2024?

The wedding season has just begun. And I think the aftereffects of this wedding and the country-wide fervour towards fashion and celebration would lead up to the upcoming january. These are extremely intricate, handcrafted pieces which have taken months of prep and work. The results of this are long term. Not only does it honour, and gives the brand a certain positioning, but it also brings back a lot of focus onto craft and the product - which is essentially what is important for the brand to work.

What kind of queries or designs are being asked to be made post the amazing saree you designed for Deepika Padukone?

We have always welcomed customization at Torani, and we have always taken bridal appointments to enhance their personal style. We believe in personality building and sharing stories which culminate into a unique and individual journey that the brand and the bride can embark on, together. Since this saree, we have gotten multiple bridal requests, even from mothers of the brides, who want to take on something like this and create a museum quality piece and cherish it and pass it on to her daughter. We’re excited too - this is a second leap for the brand. Because we did a specific collection of bridal creations only last year, for the first time. And as this journey goes on with ‘Leela’, we are excited to see where it takes us.