With milk and khoya, as the key ingredients, Lord Shiva enjoys the crispy-edged, soft-centred malpua. In Varanasi, it is malpua on Shivratri, as devotees believe that being Shiva’s abode and given his love for malpuas, it has to be this sweet.
According to Vineet Manocha, president – culinary, Bikaji Foods International Limited, as Mahashivratri, is so special, the 'bhog' offered to the deity has to be equally unique and that's why Shiva likes malpua, the oldest known dessert in Vedic Indian cuisine, which is as ascetic and simple, as Shiva.
He adds, “Malpua, described as Apupa in Rigveda, is popular not only in various parts of India, but also in the subcontinent. Known by different names, like amalu in Odisha, marpa in Nepal, adhirasam in Tamil Nadu, yet the ingredients, shape, texture, flavours remain similar. It is a fried pancake disc of a simple batter made with flour, milk and sugar, flavoured with fennel seeds and black peppercorns, fried in desi ghee.”
Highlighting another interpretation about the significance of malpua on Mahashivratri, Bengaluru-based Vikas Seth, chef and culinary director, Embassy Group, explains, “Malpua is offered to Lord Shiva as bhog, during the festival, because it is made with khoya and ghee, which are saatvik in nature. The circular shape of malpua is said to represent the cyclical nature of life, death, and rebirth, a concept closely associated with Lord Shiva who is often seen as the destroyer and regenerator. The sweet taste of malpua, also symbolises the sweetness and auspiciousness that devotees wish to invoke during the festival.”
Today variations abound and malpuas are no exception. Manocha quips, “There have been many experiments with malpua: addition of mashed bananas, saffron, cardamom, mawa, semolina, dipping in sugar syrup after frying, serving with rabri, but in the Vedic times it used to be made with Barley flour, poached in water and dipped in Honey before consumption.
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