'Indian cuisine is not just about the North-West Frontier and Delhi': Indian Accent chef Manish Mehrotra

Chef Manish Mehrotra, Indian Accent, Delhi

Chef Manish Mehrotra, the founder of Indian Accent restaurants in New Delhi and New York, was in Kolkata recently as part of Masters of Marriott Bonvoy and Culinary Culture's initiative to bring globally known chefs to the City of Joy - Chef Mehrotra's Indian Accent is currently listed at No. 22 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for its experimental take on Indian cuisine.

The chef spoke to us about his aim to educate the world about Indian food, and his food philosophy. Excerpts from the interview:

What do you like to see on the breakfast table?

I believe breakfast should be tasty and healthy. I love south Indian food, particularly idli and dosa. On a Sunday, it has to be a pav bhaji and a glass of coconut water. Once or twice a week, I also love a soft-boiled egg.

What is your comfort food?

It really depends on the time, if its 2’o clock in the morning, it’ll either be Maggi or bhelpuri, but generally my comfort food is mushroom risotto.

Can you tell us more about the pop-up?

I am really excited to come to Kolkata, and although I’ve been to the city for multiple dinner services, I’ve never hosted a pop-up. The menu that we’ve designed reflects a lot of my signature dishes; some have been specifically made for Kolkata. There’s a Kanyakumari Crab Sago Pongal, Meetha Achar Pork Ribs, Bihari tash meat, Masala jackfruit and barberry pulao with salli, fresh truffle soft serve (specifically made for Kolkata), and nettle and purple potato raita, to name a few.

How do you feel about the development of contemporary cuisine in India?

Modern Indian food is on the right track, but of course, everything deviates and this is no exception. We will always find someone doing a dal makhni pizza, or a charcoal butter chicken but that is not the benchmark. There’s nothing called Contemporary Indian, all of these dishes are a unique combination of traditional dishes that have been elevated to suit the times. If I am making a korma without the oil float on top, does not mean it isn’t authentic — it really boils down to the ingredients. You cannot put asparagus in a Kolkata biryani and say it’s authentic. It really doesn’t matter if someone is doing something differently, as long as they remain true to the ingredients of the dish, a little play never hurt anyone.

Murg Malai Meatball, Indian Accent (Photo courtesy Indian Accent management)

How do you think is the world reacting to contemporary Indian cuisine?

On a global level, people are adventurous. In certain parts of the world where chicken tikka rules, it is difficult to get through but times are changing. It is imperative that we try to highlight our local food and I think modernising it is the correct medium to get regional dishes onto the global platform. Till the time one keeps their cuisine relatable and accessible, it will work. I hosted an event the other day where a lot of Swiss and German individuals were in attendance, and they absolutely loved the food — talking of spice, they didn’t even complain. When they inquired about it, I simply said that I used the same level of spice that my mother cooks with back home, there was no moderation whatsoever. In India, nobody eats spicy food on a day-to-day basis. The only time we do is when we’re outside eating at a dhaba or a street-side restaurant. In our cuisine, we allow the spices to do the talking, not the chillies.

Why does Indian food get a bad reputation for being spicy?

About 50 years ago, we chose to promote our food as a spicy cuisine and somewhere along the way, it was misconstrued. India is the land of spices, not spicy; the word got lost in translation. We promoted our cuisine as mysterious and intimidating, which is why it is still so misunderstood and out of reach for many. In my opinion, till the time a person outside of India doesn’t make these dishes in their household and doesn’t get involved with the cuisine and play around with the flavours, it will not get its due credit. I feel like samosas are one of the finest savoury pastries in the world but it is not as popular as a pasty or chimichanga because we couldn’t market it properly. Indian food is popular but only in certain pockets of the world, however, it is only a matter of time. What the world needs to know is that our cuisine is not just about the North-West Frontier and Delhi, it is way broader than that — a palak rista from Kashmir, meen moilee from Kerala or a Calcutta fish curry is just as good as butter chicken.

Daulat Ki Chaat, Indian Accent (Photo courtesy Indian Accent management)

What is your message for young chefs?

For anyone hoping to nosedive into this industry, it is important for them to know that it is tough and things will get difficult. Nowadays, everything is tough but in an industry where one needs to make sure that everyone is enjoying, it comes with a lot of sacrifice. Everyone is talking about work-life balance and it is really important. In the last five years, things have a changed a lot in this industry and I am glad about it but if one asks for a leave on a Saturday night, now that is something we cannot agree on. Superficially, like a lot of other industries, this too is glamorous but it is important that one knows and is well aware of the hardships that come with it. It is about working long hours and odd timings, simply because that is the requirement; and that is something we cannot do away with. Hard work is the key no matter where you.