Weaves in vogue: From artisanal looms to your wardrobe, fashion is high on weaves

The growing demand for handwoven garments isn’t just nostalgia but a clear indication of how fashion is evolving (Images: Naad by Vaishali Shadangule and House of Primes)

Fashion in India is undergoing a cultural renaissance, and its strongest voice comes not from global runways but from the country’s looms. As the festive season unfolds, handwoven textiles are stepping into the spotlight once again — from Pochampally Ikat and Patola to Paithani, Mashru, Baluchari, Ilkal, and Khana. The renewed appetite for these heirloom weaves reflects a larger movement: a generation of buyers who value heritage, sustainability, and the versatility of traditional textiles re-imagined for contemporary living.

Part of the appeal lies in the adaptability of the handwoven fabrics, and the desire to look desi. A handloom sari, once reserved for ceremonial occasions, can now be re-styled as a layered dress, an oversized trench, or even a breezy kaftan. Their intricate textures and motifs lend themselves easily to both minimal and maximalist aesthetics. As designer Vaishali Shadangule explains, “Younger audiences are extremely sensitive to sustainability and to nature to a certain extent. I love the traditional hand woven fabrics as they are, and try to make a more modern use of them, for them to be appreciated and worn by larger audiences globally, and gain back the stage that they used to have. In terms of weaving techniques, I like traditional framework, motifs paired with new colours and colour combinations.” Her latest showcase is titled Naad.

This balance between tradition and trend is why woven textiles are enjoying a second life in urban wardrobes. Designers are also reinterpreting rare motifs and age-old techniques with a sustainable lens — tracing every stage of fabric production, repurposing leftover swatches into accessories, adopting natural dyes, and experimenting with indigenous draping styles. In many ways, the slow craft of weaving has become fashion’s strongest answer to the fast-paced churn of global retail.

Among the most exciting examples of this revival is the resurgence of Karnataka’s Ilkal and Khana weaves. With their bold borders, geometric pharaspet designs, and striking colour contrasts, these textiles were once seen mainly in traditional saris.

Today, they’re being reinvented into versatile separates like jackets, crop tops, structured dresses, and even reversible pieces that fit seamlessly into modern wardrobes. Nupur Saxena, founder of House of Primes, has been experimenting with these textiles in fresh, urban ways. She notes, “Using Karnataka’s signature Ilkal and Khana textiles, we have crafted flat-patterned silhouettes that prioritise breathability, reversibility, and functionality for today’s busy woman. From fusing unique Ilkal sari borders like Pharaspet, Gaadi Dadi, Gomi Teni with modern silhouettes like kimono-style jackets and tops, the innovation with structural elements makes these pieces perfect to style in multiple ways.”

The growing demand for handwoven garments isn’t just nostalgia but a clear indication of how fashion is evolving. Consumers today are looking for pieces with stories, clothes that connect them to communities and craftspeople. By bridging heritage with innovation, Indian designers are ensuring that these textiles are not museum relics but living, wearable art.