
In recent years, global fashion houses have begun to collect inspiration from different cultures. Appropriation occurs when specific design details from a culture are used without any acknowledgment or respect for the source. The most recent example of this debate is Ralph Lauren, whose Fall 2026 show at Paris Fashion Week featured accessories designed to mimic traditional Indian jhumka earrings.
Just a few months ago, Lauren's show was going to be the center of controversy. Ralph Lauren is not the first high-end brand to receive that criticism, as other brands have done it before. Luxury fashion houses such as Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Dior have also come under fire for the blatant use of Indian culture and design in their collections, including Kolhapuri-style sandals, auto rickshaw bags, and Mukaish embroidery, and most recently, for the lack of acknowledgement to the origin of the designs in their over glorified use of Indian culture in their collections.
All that could be heard from the Ralph Lauren show was the brand's signature suit jackets and trousers, so you could only imagine the beauty of the baggy jeans, and the softer silhouettes that will definitely dominate the runways for seasons to come. Then, of course, there was the signature statement jhumka-style earrings that seemed to match and coordinate with each outfit and then just ended up clashing with the whole collection, and that is the most I will say to not repeat the title of the collection.
Despite the clear resemblance to a well-known Indian jewellery form, the brand’s posts describing the collection did not mention the cultural origin of the earrings. Instead, captions accompanying runway images referred to “authentic vintage accessories” used to style select looks.
In some posts, Ralph Lauren also noted that certain pieces were created by Native American designers Neil Zarama, Jimmy Begay, and TÓPA, as part of the brand’s Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence programmes.Craftsmanship from India was not mentioned in the context of the earrings.
Also Read: After Kolhapuri controversy, Prada in trouble again for "copying" Indian juttis
The lack of references led to the attribution discourse, with countless handles raising the question of where the roots of the jewellery were.not acknowledged.
Some social media users expressed disappointment, pointing out how traditional designs from India often appear on global platforms without proper recognition. Others joked about the familiarity of the designs, referencing Delhi’s popular Janpath market, known for its eclectic jewellery stalls.
More critical voices described the situation as another example of global fashion drawing from South Asian aesthetics without giving due credit. For many commentators, the issue is not about global inspiration itself, but about ensuring that the origins of such cultural elements are recognised.
The debate around jhumkas at Ralph Lauren’s show also coincides with similar design inspirations appearing elsewhere in the fashion industry.
Also Read: Prada's safety pin with a modest brooch is priced at Rs 69,000; Will you buy?
Jewellery brand Sophie Buhai, for instance, recently introduced sterling silver tassel drop earrings as part of its R’26 collection. The product description on the brand’s website notes that the design is “inspired by the timeless elegance of traditional Indian artistry.” The earrings are priced at USD 695 (around Rs 63,900). The Nadia earrings, another of their designs, retail for USD 1,050 (roughly Rs 96,500).
Jewellery brand Sophie Buhai, introduced the Nadia earrings as part of its R'26 collection and it is listed at USD 1,050 (approximately Rs 96,500) (Photo: Sophie Buhai)
These instances show the relentless appropriation of Indian craftsmanship in various design narratives. Appropriating Indian design without references to the original artisans and culture is highly criticized, suggesting that their work merely celebrates the designs.
The Indian jhumka, characterised by elaborate design, has a long tradition in the Indian subcontinent and is the product of highly skilled regional artisanal work. While jhumka-inspired designs may be seen as a fashion-forward and culturally aesthetic addition to a collection, many advocates believe that these pieces, including detailed jhumka designs, should not be used in modern collections without transparency, attribution, and proper recognition.
The absence of these attributes and recognition has often led to backlash, as seen in the Ralph Lauren show, and most audiences understand that traditional designs can be used in collections created by brands, but that recognition of the cultural sources is equally essential. This is the most recent and most visible example of the need for cultural transparency in fashion.
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