Trans Bhutan Trail: How to get there and what to expect along the 403 km trekking trail

Monasteries and fortresses dot the recently reopened Trans Bhutan Trail. (Photo by Ken Spence)

With its golden-roofed temples, magnificent monasteries, and stunning mountains, Bhutan was always a great vacation spot. Now this magical Himalayan country has opened a hiking trail for the first time in 60 years. The Trans Bhutan Trail traverses the country, from Haa in the west to Trashigang in the east (near the Tibet border) and spans 403 km. Along the way are pristine forests and breathtaking scenery courtesy of the remoteness of the trail. The sights, combined with the history of the trail, make it a perfect destination for a lovely adventure-filled vacation.

The backstory

For hundreds of years, the Trans Bhutan Trail was key for monks, traders, soldiers, messengers, artists, workers and tax collectors who used it for trade, pilgrimage and communication. Garps or runners populated the trail to move mail and messages, and Dzongs (fortresses) were built along it to defend against invaders.

Though some sections of the trail remained in use for herding cattle, including yak, and local pilgrimage, most of the trail fell into disuse when Bhutan introduced its national road network in the 1960s, and was officially closed shortly after.

For the past three years, two teams of Desuups (national volunteers) have been working to restore the Trans Bhutan Trail; constructing new pathways, renovating bridges, fixing posts, recording cultural sites and upgrading signs along the route.

“Almost 40 years ago when I first came to trek in Bhutan, I heard stories from elders of an ancient trail that extended deep into the remote central and eastern parts of the country and that they had walked as children. Fewer than 3,000 foreigners a year visited Bhutan at the time, and few went beyond Paro, Thimphu and Punakha. I dreamt of walking that trail. During the restoration, more than 400km of trail was cleared, 10,000 stone steps cut and installed and 18 bridges built over 115,000 feet of vertical sometimes in very challenging weather,” says Sam Blyth, chair and founder of Bhutan Canada Foundation (BCF), the main sponsor of the restoration project.

The trail is already garnering the world's interest. Time magazine has listed it as one of the top 50 places to visit in 2022. And adventure junkie Bear Grylls has set his eyes on the route.

“I walked this trail with my grandmother when I was 14 years old. She was in her 60s, and I carried her eatables, tea and water,” said Lotay Tshering, Prime Minister of Bhutan.

Young monks peering down from the window of a monastery along the Trans Bhutan Trail. (Photo by Ken Spence)

What’s in store

Just because this trail circumnavigates the mountain, rather than summits, don’t assume it’s an easy walk in an ancient forest. Be prepared for a lot of ascending and descending.

Choosing the best of the 403 km tracks is a little like being forced to pick your favourite child. I particularly enjoyed the three-hour hike from Semtokha Dzong to Yuesipang. This particular stretch passes through sparkling rivers, mountains and some enchanting bridges to reach an apple orchard where the trek ends.

The hike from Dochula to Thinleygang is equally wild and scenic. Be prepared for a blushing sunrise over dense rhododendron, waterfalls and the fluffiest white clouds. At Thinleygang, as you catch your breath, you are rewarded with dizzying views over the hills. If the scenery isn’t reward enough, the solace and tranquility make the arduous journey well worth it. Just make sure you’re prepared for the challenge.

(Photo by Ken Spence)

Ways to do it

The trail can be explored by foot or bike, and crosses through one national park and about 400 historic and cultural sites.

The Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB) has craved out various itineraries and packages for tourists, starting from a week to a month to explore the entire trail (403 km).

You can add Bhutan’s famous sights such as Tiger’s Nest, Kichu Lhakhang temple, Punakha Dzong, Nalanda monastery and activities like rafting, fly-fishing and bird watching to the itinerary.

Stay options along the trail include campsites, heritage farmhouses, rural homestays and comfortable four-star hotels.

The Trans Bhutan Trail is also a lesson in slow travel and an unsung way to explore the world’s sole carbon-negative country – one trek at a time.

At a rural homestay along the trail (Photo by Ken Spence)

Things to know

Bhutan has only one airport, located in Paro. Two airlines – Bhutan Airlines and Druk Air – fly to Bhutan from Kolkata, Delhi and Mumbai in India.

Indians visiting Bhutan will have to pay a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of Rs 1200 (US$15) per person per day. A pre-arranged guide, hotel accommodation and permits are essential. These can be arranged through a Bhutanese agent or independently.

The best months to visit Bhutan are March/April – for warm temperatures and stunning rhododendron blooms, and October/November – for clear Himalayan views and the most popular festivals.