Goa’s growing appetite for Japanese food

Chef Pablo Luis de Miranda's Makutsu in Panjim, Goa, is dedicated to yakitori - it does not serve sushi and sashimi.

Colourful and healthful, Japanese cuisine is making its way into the hearts of food lovers in Goa. Whether it is a quick Ramen bowl for lunch or post-work socialising over a Teppanyaki and a glass of sake, diners are enjoying the diverse flavours of Japanese cuisine - ranging from sweet miso to salty tamari shoyu.

With the influx of international tourists to Goa, five-star hotels serving the odd Japanese dish or two was commonplace even a decade ago, but there were few takers elsewhere.

In a bid to popularise this cuisine, in 2012 Akshay and Anish Quenim, organised the Washoku festival of Japanese cuisine at The Pan Asian Bowl in Panjim. A decade later, the state is dotted with Japanese restaurants, as the cuisine is gaining popularity.

And no, it is not just the limited sushi options at buffets or the lightly battered, deep-fried Tempura live-counters at a Sunday Brunch in a five-star hotel. “Stand-alone restaurants, albeit small, even neighbourhood spots and a few upscale (places), are offering Japanese cuisine in Goa and are going beyond the usual favourites - sushi and sashimi. We too felt the time was right to enter Goa,” observes Rinchen Angchuk of Kofuku Goa.

From a Sakana to Roboto and a Yaki Zushi to a Matcha, Japanese cuisine restaurants abound. Even Pan Asian restaurants like Tataki and Spice Traders at W Goa, offer Japanese dishes on their menu.

Chef Oishik Neogy of Roboto, Calangute, one of the most popular Izakaya-style restaurants, concurs, “Japanese food neither means only sushi and sashimi, and nor is it expensive and something that can be enjoyed in five-star hotels only. It is easily available in Goa now and affordable. For instance, given the quality of ingredients we use, at our restaurant, we are reasonably priced.”

Growing popularity

The excitement over Japanese food has never been higher in Goa. But is the buzz here to stay and the cuisine not just another fad?

Amory D’souza of Yaki Zushi says, “The popularity of Japanese food is incredible. From barely seven restaurants when I started Yaki Zushi in 2015, today, almost 20 restaurants serve this food in Goa and the number is growing.”

Roboto marked its first anniversary recently. Makutsu opened doors in January 2022. Kofuku, an established Japanese restaurant with outlets in Mumbai and Delhi, entered Goa with a cosy outlet in Parra in February. And by month-end, the upscale Izumi from Bandra Mumbai, will have an outpost in Assagao, complete with a Robata grill area and an elaborate beverage programme to complement their bar.

Harry Hakuei Kosato, founder and director, Sushi & More, says, “About 60 restaurants have opened in Goa in the last two-three months, and of that, many serve Japanese food, and the main food is sushi. Sushi is the hottest trending food now in India, and also with so many people visiting Goa, is definitely here to stay.”

But is the Japanese food in Goa, really authentic? Ask any expert and they’ll tell you that chicken and avocado or tuna mayo, used regularly in India, aren’t even traditional sushi fillings. But familiarity and comfort play a big role in the acceptance of Japanese cuisine, so chefs are unapologetic about these deviations.

Sushi and more

Given the popularity of sushi, The Asian Wok restaurant, Grand Hyatt Goa, recently collaborated with Sushi & More, a Japanese food delivery and takeaway restaurant, for a pop-up.

Says Harry, “A lot of our customers visit Goa from Delhi and Mumbai, where our stores are located. The response was fabulous. Our pop-up started in November and ended on 26 January 2022.”

People in Goa are now more open to experimentation and their progressive infatuation with this cuisine has given restaurants the confidence to go beyond sushi. Angchuk opines, “Yes, sushi is always popular, but people who are familiar with this cuisine and our brand, are equally ready to dive into our Katsu curry and Donburi.”

Ramen bowl at Roboto Goa.

Indeed, there is more to Japanese cuisine than just Sushi and people are discovering that. Makutsu, in Panjim Goa, a new eatery by Chef Pablo Luis de Miranda, is dedicated to yakitori. It offers 27 varieties of Yakitori, mostly chicken, but Chef has experimented with vegetarian dishes, too.

Explains Chef Pablo, “A result of my travels to Japan and subsequent research, Makutsu, focusses only on Yakitori, as I felt, grilled chicken-on-a-stick, would work in India, as we Indians love our kebabs. We do not serve sushi and sashimi, as many restaurants already do and these are not my area of interest or expertise. People in Goa are serious about good food and the timing seemed right. Keen to play around with flavours, I work with local guys who create unique sauces and ingredients which enhance the flavour of my offerings.”

Vocal for local

Japanese cuisine may have a distinct flavour profile, but local ingredients always have a soft-corner in a Chef’s heart.

Indeed, whether it is showcasing edible sea weed from Gabriella D’Cruz or the sweet cashew miso and smoked tomato tamari from Brown Koji Boy and People's Lager, rice beer, in the near future, from Suraj Shenai’s Goa Brewing Co., Chef Pablo, is happy to collaborate with local talent.

Rinchen of Kofuku, too, is exploring local vegetables and sea food for their Japanese dishes.

Black Banana Bread at Roboto, Goa.

Chef Nirav Gadre of Izumi says that although he has not yet “found any local ingredients that fit into the flavours of Japanese cuisine”, he is open to the idea. But of course the local fresh fish, especially, Chonak, has caught his attention and made its way into his kitchen.

Entrepreneurs, too, are adventurous and ready to cater to the growing demand for unique ingredients. Prachet Sancheti, founder and head fermenter, Brown Koji Boy, based in Goa, says, “Koji-based fermentation techniques fascinated me, and I now make a range of artisanal products, which chefs and restaurants use.”

Soy sauce made from chana dal, miso made from Poe and beverages made from Goan red rice, smoked tomato tamari, cashew miso, are his top-selling items since the past four months and many are used in Japanese dishes.

Japanese desserts

It is not just savoury dishes from Japan that have tickled the palate of diners in Goa. Desserts, too, score high. Of course, some traditional and others, with a twist.

Sipu Puyi, offers the popular wiggly Japanese cheesecake, as does Breaking Bread with Aaron in Sangolda.

Angchuk of Kofuku is all set to make use of the local coconut in his desserts. For now, his matcha ice cream with Adzuki red beans as a topping, is hugely popular.

Matcha ice cream with Adzuki beans at Kofuku

Chef Pablo serves the Hokkaido milk bun with a vanilla ice cream and cashew miso caramel.

Twists, need not always be in terms of ingredients. Chef Neogy of Roboto does a Black banana bread, making use of the Japanese technique of fermentation, while Chef Nirav of Izumi is happy to weave in Western techniques for their Japanese ingredients-based desserts. He plans to serve a Chocolate Namelaka mousse with a miso caramel and a Yuzu meringue tart with sesame in the tart base and even has a whole new dessert menu for Goa.

Japanese restaurants have seized on growth opportunities in Goa, and diners have been quick to gravitate towards them.