Who invented butter chicken: What you need to know about Daryaganj restaurant, one of the contenders

Founded in 2019 by childhood friends, Raghav Jaggi and Amit Bagga, Daryaganj restaurant pays tribute to the legacy of Raghav’s grandfather, the late Kundan Lal Jaggi (above, left). (Photos courtesy Daryaganj restaurant)

Globally famous butter chicken and dal makhani – iconic dishes in North Indian cuisine and universal favourites – are back in the news, as claims are being staked to their invention. Old-timers in Delhi have associated these dishes with Moti Mahal in Daryaganj, Old Delhi, but then there’s, ‘Daryaganj – By the Inventors of Butter Chicken and Dal Makhani’ (trademarked), a north Indian cuisine restaurant, in the fray too, through their lineage – Raghav Jaggi, a cofounder of Daryaganj restaurant is the grandson of Kundan Lal Jaggi, one of the founders of the original Moti Mahal, registered in Delhi in 1947.

While most people – especially lovers of butter chicken and interesting food stories – have heard of Moti Mahal, the origin story of Daryaganj restaurant is less well-known. Without playing favourites then, and strictly refraining from commenting on the authenticity of the claims, which anyway are now in front of a Delhi High Court bench to decide, a look at what is ‘Daryaganj-By the Inventors of Butter Chicken and Dal Makhani’™, and why its founders stake a claim to inventing the now ubiquitous buttery dishes. Read on:

The Moti Mahal story

Kundan Lal Jaggi, Kundan Lal Gujral, and Thakur Dass Mago, three friends originally from Peshawar, came to Delhi as refugees after Partition. Together, they opened a Tandoori food restaurant - Moti Mahal - in Daryaganj in 1947.

The restaurant started small, but soon flourished, becoming a culinary landmark in the city. People traversed long distances to savour their popular Butter Chicken, Dal Makhani and tandoori fare.

Thakur Dass left the business at some point. And in 1992, the two remaining partners Kundan Lal Jaggi and Kundal Lal Gujral too parted ways. While the Moti Mahal brand and the running of its franchises went to Kundan Lal Gujral’s family – resulting in the Moti Mahal Group and Moti Mahal Delux, the original Moti Mahal Daryaganj property was sold to Vinod Chaddha. Kundan Lal Jaggi exited from the food business altogether.

What is ‘Daryaganj – By the Inventors of Butter Chicken and Dal Makhani’?

Founded by two childhood friends, Raghav Jaggi and Amit Bagga, in 2019, Daryaganj pays tribute to the legacy of Raghav’s grandfather, the late Kundan Lal Jaggi.

Amit Bagga and Raghav Jaggi (Photo courtesy Daryaganj restaurant)

A relatively new entrant, but climbing the popularity charts steadily in Delhi, this north Indian cuisine restaurant, has become known for its Butter Chicken and Dal Makhani in a short span. The restaurant aims to celebrate Jaggi’s culinary legacy and the resilience and innovation of the Punjabi refugees who migrated to Delhi after the partition in 1947.

Explaining the tagline, Amit Bagga, cofounder & CEO, Daryaganj Hospitality Pvt. Ltd, says, “Raghav Jaggi is the owner of the registered trademark ‘Daryaganj - By the Inventors of Butter Chicken & Dal Makhani' for restaurant services amongst others. This trademark was applied on 14th March 2018 and registered unopposed.”

Daryaganj, is a celebration of North Indian, old-world flavours and closely guarded recipes. The founders say they hope to preserve traditional cooking techniques, and create dining experiences reminiscent of a bygone era with dishes like kebabs, Butter chicken and Dal makhani that can transport a diner to the lanes of 20th century Daryaganj, evoking nostalgia. The original recipes handed down the generations have been reconstructed to be closest to the way Kundan Lal Jaggi served them in 1947.

With a view to expanding, the founders of Daryaganj restaurant even made a pitch on Shark Tank Season 2, successfully striking a deal which has given a boost to the brand. This enabled them to forge ahead and today they boast of 10 outlets. Newer ones are in the pipeline- some Pan-India and one overseas, in Thailand.