Imported Hilsa (Ilish) fish from Bangladesh, a culinary treasure beloved in Bengali cuisine, faces significant uncertainty this year due to ongoing political unrest and potential grey market issues. Former Bangladeshi Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina had previously facilitated the annual export of Hilsa to India from August to October as a goodwill gesture, despite restrictions imposed by the Bangladeshi government.
With the current political crisis unfolding in Bangladesh, the prospects of Bengalis in India enjoying their favoured fish, Hilsa (or Ilish), ahead of Durga Puja are diminishing. The fish typically enters India through the Petrapole border near Bongaon, West Bengal. Recent tensions in the neighbouring country have created uncertainty among fish traders, and export-import activities along the Indo-Bangladesh border have recently come to a halt.
Bengal's Treasured Fish
Hilsa is a migratory species that travels from the Bay of Bengal to spawn in freshwater rivers, covering distances of 50 to 100 kilometers. The fish can be found in various rivers including the Bhagirathi-Hooghly, Rupnagar (known for Kolaghat Hilsa), the lower Brahmaputra, Narmada, and Godavari in India, as well as the Padma and Meghna rivers in Bangladesh, and even in Myanmar's Irrawaddy and Pakistan's Indus rivers.
In Kolkata, three main varieties are popular: the less expensive Burmese Ilish from Myanmar, the Kolaghat variety from southern West Bengal, and the most coveted Padma Hilsa from Bangladesh.
'Gift' for Bengal
From 2012 to 2018, Bangladesh imposed a ban on Hilsa exports to West Bengal due to disputes over the Teesta River water-sharing agreement. This led to a significant drop in imports and a sharp increase in prices. The scarcity also fueled smuggling across the porous India-Bangladesh border.
After Sheikh Hasina’s re-election in 2018, she lifted the export ban, allowing 500 tonnes of Hilsa to be imported into Kolkata in September 2020, just before Durga Puja. Despite this gesture, recent environmental issues continue to challenge the sustainability of the Hilsa fishery.
Last September, the Sheikh Hasina government allowed the export of around 3,950 metric tonnes of Padma Hilsa to India in time for Durga Puja. This year, however, it is uncertain if this quantity of Bangladeshi Hilsa will make its way to India.
At present, Hilsa is being imported from Myanmar and Odisha, with some also entering through unofficial routes. The price for Bangladeshi Hilsa typically ranges from Rs 2,200 to Rs 2,400 per kilogram.
As of 2021, Bangladesh was responsible for 86 percent of the world’s Hilsa supply, contributing 1.15 percent to its GDP. The fishery supports thousands of fishermen and plays a crucial role in the economy of both India and Bangladesh.
The future of Hilsa imports to India remains uncertain due to the interplay of political instability and environmental degradation. While the fish holds immense cultural and economic value, both countries face significant challenges in maintaining the delicate balance between demand, ecological sustainability, and diplomatic relations.
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