Going for hair colour? Make sure it’s free from these unsafe ingredients

Not all “ammonia-free” hair colours are gentle. Here’s what really damages hair — and how to colour smarter without sacrificing hair health

• Frequent harsh hair coloring can cause dryness and scalp irritation.
• Ammonia-free hair colours may still contain damaging substitutes like MEA
• Choose organic, low-alkali hair colours and always check ingredient lists

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Over the years, hair colouring has become a regular part of modern grooming, no longer reserved for special occasions or covering greys alone. From experimenting with shades to maintaining a polished look, colouring is now routine for many. However, the real concern begins when frequent colouring starts affecting hair quality. Opt for hair colours that are free from ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, and harsh substitutes, and are made with organic or conditioning ingredients, for better scalp health.

How traditional colours cause damage

Conventional permanent hair colours rely heavily on ammonia and hydrogen peroxide (HPO). Ammonia aggressively opens the hair cuticle so colour molecules can penetrate, while hydrogen peroxide breaks down natural melanin before depositing artificial pigment. This process works quickly and delivers visible results, but it also places significant stress on the hair shaft and scalp. With repeated use, this chemical assault leads to dryness, rough texture, split ends, breakage, scalp irritation, and hair that gradually loses its natural resilience.

Also Read: Hair Colour Trends 2025: Trending hair colours and styles to boost your style game this season

The truth about ‘Ammonia-free’ labels

The rise of ammonia-free hair colours has led to a perception that they are entirely harmless. Removing ammonia alone does not guarantee hair safety if harsh substitutes are still present. Shyam S. Arya, MD and CEO at Sadaway Pvt. Ltd., explains, “Many ‘ammonia-free’ colours replace ammonia with MEA (Monoethanolamine) or similar chemicals. While MEA has less smell, it is not necessarily gentler. MEA stays on the hair longer, can be harder to wash out, and may still disturb the hair’s pH balance. In some cases, it can cause equal or greater long-term damage, especially with repeated use. This is why ammonia-free does not always mean damage-free.”

Why is Hydrogen Peroxide a bigger red flag?

Hydrogen peroxide is often overlooked because it doesn’t have the same strong reputation as ammonia. Yet, it plays a major role in long-term damage. Arya adds, “Hydrogen peroxide (or HPO) is another major concern. It does not add colour, it destroys natural melanin first. Repeated HPO use weakens hair structure and disrupts pigment stability, which is why many people notice increased dryness, thinning, and faster return of greys over time. Long-term hair health comes from reducing chemical stress with every application.” This explains why frequent colouring can sometimes accelerate greying and leave hair looking lifeless despite regular conditioning.

Dos and don’ts when choosing hair colour

Hair colouring itself is not the enemy, but the irresponsible formulations are. Experts now recommend products that reduce chemical stress with every application. The goal is not just immediate colour payoff, but hair that stays healthy, soft, and resilient over time.

Also Read: Is hair colour safe? Dermatologist shares health risks and 6 tips to reduce them

1. Do read ingredient lists carefully. Look beyond marketing claims and check if the product is free from ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, and harsh alternatives like MEA.
2. Do choose hair colours with low-alkali, gel-based or organic formulations that respect the hair cuticle and maintain scalp comfort.
3. Do perform a patch test every time, even if you’ve used the product before.
4. Don’t colour hair too frequently without giving it time to recover.
5. Don’t assume salon or premium pricing automatically means safer ingredients.