Keeping up with Kalimpong, the picture postcard east Himalayan turf

Sunrise in Kalimpong, West Bengal. (Photo: Sudarshan Lohar via Unsplash)

Cradled by the Himalayas, rimmed by precipitous valleys and awash with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, Kalimpong is picture postcard turf. Away from the whirligig of West Bengal’s other hill stations (Darjeeling, Siliguri), the serene town is perched on a ridge above the Teesta River between Deolo and Durpin Dara hills.

History whispers from its every corner. Once the hub of trans-Himalayan trade between India and Tibet, Kalimpong bustled with mule caravans ferrying precious cargo through the Jelepla Pass to the Sikkim-Tibet border. It remained a part of Sikkim until Bhutan annexed it in 1718. After 150 years, the town came under East India Company’s control and was developed by the British as an alternate hill station to crowded Darjeeling.

The town’s complex past makes it a cultural kaleidoscope, a plurality reinforced by a population of Nepalis, Bhutanese, Lepchas and Buddhists, all living harmoniously here. This multi-hued patchwork quilt of castes and communities translates into immersive travel experiences for tourists. Such as getting to savour delicious food influenced by varied culinary cultures; exploring architectural sites with foreign design elements; visiting shrines, temples and monasteries as well as shopping for a mindboggling range of handicrafts.

Fortune Resort, Kalimpong

From Airbnb (Rs 5,000 per night) to cosy homestays in quaint mountain hamlets (Rs 3,500 upwards), Kalimpong offers a plethora of stay options. However, luxury hotels are a rarer find although that lacuna seems now addressed with the launch of ITC’s freshly-minted Fortune Resort and Spa. Located 80 km from Bagdogra Airport, the property is nestled amid picturesque locales on Upper Cart Road in Basuripul, its 44 well-appointed rooms overlooking Mt Kanchenjunga and a green forested valley. Creature comforts — swimming pool, a spa, two restaurants and a bar — abound.

Deolo Hill

The vertiginous Delo View Point offers scintillating views of the snow-swathed Himalayas and lush alpine foliage. The sprawling and beautifully landscaped Deolo Park has horse riding and paragliding for sports lovers. For an adventure of a different kind, nip up to the `haunted’ Morgan House on Durpin Dara Hill. The stony colonial mansion built in the 1930s hosted the nuptials of jute baron George Morgan and a local indigo plantation owner. However, tragedy befell the couple and the missus died mysteriously soon after. The beautiful house overlooking the majestic Kanchenjunga is believed to be haunted by her ghost!

Morgan House, Kalimpong. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

With stunning Buddhist monasteries, centuries-old temples and historic shrines dotting it like confetti, Kalimpong is a revered spiritual destination. Durpin Monastery, one of the largest and most reputed Buddhist shrines in West Bengal makes for an Insta-worthy photo stop with its gold patinated interiors and beatific monks. It is also a repository of sacred religious texts. Consisting of 108 volumes, the texts were carried by the Dalai Lama during his exile. Some of the rare Buddhist documents are also found within the Zang Dhok Palri Monastery. Located at 1,372 m, the stunning shrine overlooks the snowcapped Kanchenjunga and the mercurial Teesta river meandering below.

Zang Dhok Palri Monastery, Durpin Hill, Kalimpong. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

From buzzing cafes to quaint bakeries offering tasty treats, Kalimpong is a foodie haven. The mélange of culinary influences — from Nepalese to Bhutanese and Chinese — is showcased effectively in local dishes. Drop by at Zodiac restaurant at Fortune Resort and Spa for a lip-smacking Bengali thali. Gleaming katoris of machher jhol, begun bhaja, aloo posto, kosha mangsho will materialise before you with piping hot millet rotis. A Nepalese thali of gundruk jhol (mustard leaf curry) , churpi ko sabji and chicken curry is no less of a sensory feast. Tuck in while feasting your eyes on the majestic eastern Himalayas encircling the resort.

“We leverage native produce to craft dishes that are fresh, seasonal and local,” the resort’s manager informs me as I relish a quintessentially Bengali confection — mishti doi. Some of the resort’s produce is harvested from its organic kitchen garden which also sprouts Darjeeling tea bushes! The next day, I savour a multicuisine buffet featuring Indian, Chinese, Continental and local delights at the resort while the Neptune Bar offered me a perfect spot to enjoy sundowners in a vibrant setting with delicious nibbles.

Kalimpong’s atmospheric markets — Dumbar Chowk and Haat Bazaar — are a delight to explore. They brim with pocket friendly and eco-friendly goods such as quaint souvenirs, curios, fabrics, clothes, bags, herbs, condiments, flavorful snacks, as well as Nepalese and Tibetan handicrafts. Plastic bags are banned in Kalimpong, so don’t forget to carry a cloth bag to stuff all the goodies. Or better still, pick up a lovely local textile bag at a bargain price.

Red Panda at Neora Valley National Park, Kalimpong. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Exotic Himalayan flora grows abundantly in Kalimpong. Every tiny house has pretty pots of plants embellishing its doorsteps. Local nurseries sell everything from orchids to cactus to gladioli as well as a plethora of other attractive species. Cactus shops do brisk business selling a stunning selection of these thorny greens. For more floral feasts, saunter down to the local flower market overflowing with orchids, Himalayan flower bulbs, tubers, rhizomes and more.

Horticulture is a major revenue generator in Kalimpong with its floral harvests winging their way across the world. The Kalimpong annual flower show in October is a big draw for those keen to see orchids blooming wild on trees and nurseries showcasing finest cacti collections. To take things up a notch, visit the Neora Valley National Park, a global biodiversity hot spot with growth so thick that even sunlight can’t filter through. A rich biological zone teeming with flora and fauna, it is also home to the elusive red panda.