4 reasons to visit Indore, from 56 food stalls at Chappan Dukan to the scenic drive to Jam Gate

(from left) A Bhairavgarh batik workshop; poha jalebi; and dahi bhalla with 'chatpata masala' in Indore. (Photos by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

I’m at a trendy bar, in time for sundowners. I could be in Bengaluru or Gurugram - steel and glass structures dot the skyline, an all-new mall (Phoenix Citadel) looms in the distance and there’s a perceptible buzz in the air. This is the new Indore, it’s changed considerably since my last visit here in 2021 and nowhere is this change more visible than The Park Indore, the city’s newest luxury hotel.

In many ways Indore captures the energy of new India. It’s the heart of India, the traditions of the past converge with optimism for the future. It’s evident in almost every experience in and around the city - from its cuisine and heritage spots to nightlife. There’s never been a better time to visit to Indore.

Foodies unite

Indore is a city that doesn’t sleep early. Its most popular food district – Sarafa Market, a jewellery market by day and a vibrant food market post 9 pm, stays open well after midnight. As winter approaches, you’re likely to see stalls at Sarafa serving Garadu – a deliciously simple snack where chopped yam (garadu) is thrown into large frying pans and dusted in a ‘chatpata’ masala.

Don’t leave Indore without trying the local favourite. Indore’s poha jalebi has acquired fans across the country. There’s Guru ke Pohe in the Gorakund area as well as Vijay Chaat House at Chappan Dukan. As the name suggests, this is a cluster of 56 food stalls in an all-new dining destination that consolidates Indore’s reputation as one of India’s cleanest cities. Do try the pattice and shikanji (not to be confused with the lemon-based drink) – rabdi and milk with an overload of dry fruits. One of Indore’s most popular snacks – the Indore-style hotdog pioneered by Johnny Hotdog, is another must try while you’re at Chappan Dukan.

Walk in the clouds

“Do you want to want to touch the clouds as you walk through a historic landmark?” My friend and Indore insider guide didn’t need much time to convince me to do the 90-minute drive to Jam Gate. The drive takes you past the famous cantonment of Mhow. This town has been rechristened as Dr Ambedkar Nagar – this is Bhim Janmabhoomi, the birthplace of Dr BR Ambedkar. This historic gate was built during the reign of Ahilyabai Holkar as a strategic checkpoint and viewing point between Maheshwar and Indore. If it’s your lucky day (during the monsoon), you could be walking among clouds at this panoramic point with views of the Malwa Plateau. I’d suggest reaching here just before sunset even though you might need to jostle for photo spots with local Instagram fiends.

Perfect day trip

I’d recommend reserving a day to travel to Mandu and Maheshwar. They say you can see Mandu or Mandavgadh in half a day or not be able to do justice to the stunning monuments even if you have a month. I had 180 minutes, enough time for me to be mesmerised by the architecture, the legends and the sheer scale of some of these treasures.

From the imposing Jahaz Mahal to the mausoleum of Hoshang Shah, India’s first marble structure that provided design inspiration for the Taj Mahal, to the Jami Masjid that was inspired by the Great Mosque of Damascus, Mandu was a key strategic fort (among India’s largest) town thanks to its secure location. It was at the centre of power games of the Khalji dynasty, the Mughals and the Marathas. Mandu is just two hours away from Indore and was featured extensively in the Gulzar classic Kinara (1977).

In Mandu, Madhya Pradesh (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Another popular filming location is the stunning panorama of the Ahilya fort along the river Narmada at Maheshwar. You might recognize this location from popular films like Alaipayudhey Bajirao Mastani and Dabbang 3. It’s impossible to capture the sheer scale of these panoramas and the historic Maheshwar fort with a mobile shooter. This town is steeped in legends and the life and times of Ahilya Devi Holkar and is also a great spot to shop for Maheshwari sarees.

Temple hopping

Ujjain (an hour away from Indore) is one of the seven cities that make up the Sapta Puri – a group of holy pilgrimage sites that also includes Ayodhya, Mathura and Kanchipuram. Ujjain was once Avantika and is believed to have been the political centre of central India as early as 600 BCE. Today the Ujjain Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga temple is one of the most visited shrines in Madhya Pradesh. It is one of the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines - the most sacred abodes of Lord Shiva. The temple gets busier on the weekends and on Mondays.

I’d also suggest a stop at one of the many batik workshops in Ujjain where you can watch local craftsmen in action. Bhairavgarh batik is done by hand (free-style) and has recently been recognized with a GI tag. Some of these workshops also sell sarees and home furnishings that are produced locally.

In Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh (Photo by Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Stay

The Park Indore is the city’s newest luxury hotel and is located in the city’s emerging retail and entertainment zone. It’s close to the Phoenix Citadel mall and offers a choice of dining options including ‘Epicenter’, its all-day diner, and pub – Someplace else.

Fairfield by Marriott is conveniently located with east access to the airport and train station, the hotel is also close to popular food destinations like Chappan Dukan.