Kolkata offers a fusion of history, culture, and cuisine that is unlike any other. Among the city's culinary experiences, one dish shines brighter than most: the biryani. Kolkata's romance with the biryani spans centuries, and has blossomed into sort of a celebratory experience for thousands who call the city their home. This iconic dish holds a special place in the hearts of the locals, particularly during the fervent celebrations of Durga Puja when every 300 metres, you can smell the kewra water and meetha attr in the air.
The Kolkata biryani is a close cousin of the biryani from Lucknow. Story goes that when Nawab Wajid Ali Shah reached Metiabruz with a heavy heart, he fancied something exotic - a little taste of Lucknow away from Lucknow. And hence was birthed the Kolkata Biryani, big pieces of boiled potato et al. Sudipta Mitra recounts the legend in the book, Pearl by the River. Interestingly, potatoes were added to Kolkata biryani because the Nawab wanted to try something exotic, and potatoes were as exotic as an African Cheetah back in the day.
For those who want to try the best that Kolkata biryani can be in Kolkata, we curated a list of the city’s top 10 biryani restaurants that are a must-visit during this festive season and beyond:
Aminia
Established in 1929 near Futnani Chambers, Aminia has had generations bonding over their renowned biryani (especially the Special Mutton Biryani), chaap and Aminia Special Curry. Aminia's recipes have been passed down through generations for the last 94 years, and capture the essence of the city's rich Mughlai food landscape. Their new menu has a lot of variations and the Awadhi biryani is worth trying too. To round off the meal, definitely have the Shahi Firni and call it a day, or not.
Shiraz Restaurant
Shiraz in Park Circus is one of the iconic Mughlai joints in the city. It is an oldie, but a goldie. Synonymous with Mutton Biryani and Mutton Chaap that pairs best with their parantha by the way (wash it down with a Coke, and leave worrying about the calories to another day). This classic establishment has been a mecca for biryani lovers and is mostly packed year-round. During this time of the year, you will probably have to wait a while before getting a seat here – so we recommend planning in advance, as they do not take reservations.
Royal Indian Hotel
While their OG outlet is in Chitpur and positively dated, there's also a newer outlet at Park Circus. It's hard to choose between a plate of chicken or mutton biryani, and the mutton chaap with parantha, as theirs is a softer version as compared to Shiraz. Greasy, but truly unmissable. They were once under fire for not including aloo in the biryani but they’ve rectified that mistake - the aloo now sits atop, proudly. To finish, try the Shahi Tukda.
New Aliah Hotel
Don’t judge this hotel by its exterior. It is dated, sure, but you may want to head upstairs if you want more privacy and a better setting. Thronged by office crowds and locals near the ‘office para’ or Bentinck Street, Aliah has been serving biryani and chaap for decades. Order the Chicken Biryani with Chicken Chaap, as those two items are bestsellers here. Skip the firni and wash it down with a Coke.
Kwality Restaurant
With two outlets in Ballygunge and Park Street, respectively, Kwality is a heritage that has been serving Kolkata for 70+ years. Although it started out as a tea room essentially, it fully expanded into a fine North Indian and Continental restaurant and is known for its Pindi Chana, Kebabs, A la Liev and more but we’re for the biryani so let us dive into it. Kwality’s version is a far lighter, more Delhi-style (fret not, it still has the aloo) biryani that will not give you heartburn. We recommend pairing it with the Balti Meat or Afghani Chicken for maximal pleasure. Finish with the Tutti Fruity, of course.
Oudh 1590
If you’re looking for a regal experience, no one does it better than Oudh 1590. This is your one-way ticket to Awadh (Lucknow) and an invitation to dine like the Nawabs, ‘nazakat’ included. From their Galawati kebabs to the Nargisi Kofta and the popular, Raan Biryani, Oudh 1590 is an experience you wouldn’t want to miss. The lighting (with Begum Akhtar’s thumri in the backdrop) is an issue and your IGs may not experience a photo dump, but the food is pure symphony. Round off the experience with Gulaab Sharbat and thank us later.
India Restaurant
India Restaurant’s original outlet in Kidderpore sees large crowds. But given its tricky location, the one near New Town is easier to access, all while keeping the feelers intact. Their Mutton Special Biryani is light, fragrant and yet packed with flavours. The portion is massive, so you might feel like a nap right after, we know we do. They’re also known for their ‘Kachhi Biryani’. Pair the biryani with an assortment of kebabs, or Murgh. The phirni (broken rice pudding) is missable, though.
Kareem’s
Don’t confuse this with the one from Delhi – this one’s a Bombay-based establishment that has successfully created a customer base here with their malai and tangri kebabs, and of course, the biryani. Theirs is a more decadent version - we recommend the Chicken Handi Biryani, and the Mutton Nalli Biryani. Pair it with the Chicken Malai Kebab and finish with the Shahi Tukda.
Zam Zam Restaurant
Zam Zam is known for their mutton and buff biryani, but the restaurant isn’t the most welcoming to women. If you do pop by anyway, the food never disappoints. The interiors are basic, but the food isn't. Try the biryani with the bhuna (smoked meat).
Dada Boudi
If you’re willing to travel to the outskirts of the city for good biryani, it does not get better than Dada Boudi (the restaurant is in Barrackpore, so it’s a good two-hour drive from the city). Their Special Mutton Biryani is an absolute treat; they also serve a small side of salad that pairs beautifully with the ‘browner’ and ‘spice-laden’ version that is indeed different from the biryanis we find in the city. Rest assured, it is totally worth the journey, but be prepared to wait before being seated.
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