Known for their joie de vivre and living by the dictum, ‘Khavani! Pivanu! Majjani Life!’ (eat, drink, enjoy life) naturally then, food is an integral part of the Nowruz festivities. In most homes, Navroz or the Parsi New Year, is ushered in with celebrations on the eve of the New Year — Pateti. On the Navroz morning, people dress up in their traditional best and attend prayers, followed by a breakfast and partaking of the ‘chasni’ or the blessed food. Visiting family and relatives is common and although nowadays, several restaurants offer a Parsi Bhonu, most people prefer to celebrate with their families, relishing an elaborate home-cooked meal or Bhonu. Jardaloo salli chicken, Patra ni macchi, chicken farcha, mutton pulav gajar mewa nu acchar and lagan nu custard, are typical dishes prepared in most homes.
Chicken farcha cutlets by Chef Viraf Patel.
The Fasli calendar has the Iranian New Year fixed on the Spring Equinox and celebrates Navroz or Jamshed-i-Navroz, named after the Persian king Jamshed, on March 21. In India, the Shahenshahi calendar is followed by the Parsi community and since this does not take leap years into account, the Parsi New Year is celebrated about 200 days after it is celebrated across the world.
5 Chefs from the Parsi community, across India, share what they eat on Parsi New Year.
Chef Kayzad Sadri, Executive Chef, AMADEO By Oberoi, Mumbai
Chef Kayzad Sadri at Amadeo By Oberoi, Mumbai.
The Parsi community considers fish as auspicious, and it is a must-have on any celebratory menu, including our home. Patra ni Macchi, a popular Parsi fish delicacy, is usually prepared on our New Year. The dish consists of fish with a chutney made using fresh coconut, coriander and mint, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed. Given its popularity, this dish is also a part of the Indian cuisine concept on the AMADEO By Oberoi menu.
Another specialty is Sali Boti, a sweet, sour and slightly spicy stew, made with mutton and topped with crisp potatoes.
For all special occasions at home, we prepare dhan dar which is dal cooked with a little turmeric, salt and lots of ghee. We pair it with fried fish or prawn patio. Personally, I love patio as it has spicy and sour flavours. We use sugarcane malt vinegar which imparts a complex flavour and aroma.
Chef Hanoze Shroff, Chef-Partner, Elephant & Co.
In most households, Navroz is a whole day of feasting. We start the day on a sweet note, with sev-dai (sweet brown vermicelli cooked with sugar and dry fruits, served alongside dahi from Parsi Dairy Farms. For lunch, we must have fried fish (silver pomfret) along with dhan ni daar and rice, or a delicious mutton pulav with eggs and potatoes, paired with thikki daar (spicy dal) with mutton pieces. It is a hearty dish and a must in our home. Some people would stop after this, but we love our desserts and generally eat an entire slice of malai khaja from RTI (Ratan Tata Institute).
Chef Anahita Dhondy, Chef Partner SodaBottleOpenerWala
For Chef Anahita Dhondy’s family, Parsi New Year celebrations are incomplete without Ravo, a traditional semolina and milk pudding, topped with copious amounts of dry fruits and nuts. In savoury dishes, a dhan daar patio or pulao daal is usually cooked. Some families prepare meat and fish too, but we prefer to keep it simple.
Chef Viraf Patel, Director, FireBred Hospitality
Chef Viraf Patel
The food we eat is similar on both New Years — the basic premise is to celebrate the elements, so lentils and vegetable and meat for the land and fish, for the water.
Ravo, a sweet made with semolina, milk and dry fruits, is a must in our home. Sev is an important element as well, and is made by roasting vermicelli and served with yoghurt and again, dry fruits. At meal times, Prawns and fish are cooked in either a patio style or a sass style and presented with an array of rice and vegetables. Contrary to popular belief, Dhansak is never eaten during a celebration.
Chef Dilnawaz F Karkaria, Parsi Kitchen Bites, Bengaluru
Nothing brings loved ones closer on a festival than a Parsi Bhonu. Busy throughout the year with her orders, Dilnawaz makes it a point to cook a special meal for her family on Parsi New Year. The day begins with Sagan ni sev or the sweet vermicelli for breakfast. For lunch, mutton is a must and thus it is usually a Mutton Pulav Dal or sometimes, a chicken pulav dal instead. Evenings are generally reserved for watching a Parsi play — invariably, a comedy.
Sagan ni sev by Chef Dilnawaz F Karkaria, Parsi Kitchen Bites, Bengaluru.
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