Kumaon food guide: Eat nettles and drink flowers in the land of the gods

While in Uttarakhand, try a Kumaoni thali with Madua atta roti, Bichoo saag, Bhang chutney made with hemp seeds, Gahat ki dal, and Pahadi raita made bright yellow with the addition of local mustard seeds and mustard oil. (Photo by Malavika Bhattacharya)

With summer holidays around the corner, the mountains are beckoning. Kumaon in the lower Himalaya is easily accessible from the plains of north India, both by road and by regular trains that run to Kathgodam. The mountains of Uttarakhand offer the perfect antidote to the heat and bustle of the cities. When the clouds part, the impressive Nanda Devi massif reveals herself in all her glory. Days here are long and languid, best spent in
nature. Long forest walks in the shade of oak and pine trees. Birding trails to spot the region’s avian residents and migratory arrivals. And a roaring appetite that comes with spending time in the outdoors.

What do you eat on holiday in the Kumaon? In this region, the food is emblematic of the land, relying heavily on local and seasonal produce. The result is a hyper-local cuisine that is hearty and warming, perfectly suited for the mountains. This is a place where you can drink flowers and eat stinging nettles. Here’s a roundup of what to eat, and what to bring back, from Kumaon:

Bichoo saag

On mountain walks, you’ll be warned to steer clear of bichoo buti. The stinging nettle is a wild and widely growing weed that results in rashes and a stinging sensation on contact with your skin. One misstep on a mountain path and you’ll be burning for hours. So it comes as somewhat of a surprise when the very same bichoo buti makes its way onto your plate as a delicious saag cooked in butter.

The bichoo saag is a seasonal specialty, found abundantly in winter, but also stored for the summer months. Watch out for it in the wild, but don’t miss it in your meal.

Also read: When you are in Uttarakhand, you eat well and nutritious

Gahat ki dal

A hearty, warming dal made with horsegram, gahat is traditionally a winter dal eaten in the mountains of Uttarakhand in a season when vegetables weren’t widely available. Nowadays, packets of this dal are found throughout the year. You can sample this slow-cooked dal flavoured with local herbs, ginger and garlic with a plate of steaming hot rice or rotis.

Madua atta roti

Millets are now in the spotlight across India, but this grain has traditionally always been part of the Kumaoni diet. Known as finger millets or ragi, the wholesome grain is grown across the hills of Uttarakhand and made into rotis packed with health benefits. Kumaoni thalis across the region offer generous portions of this soft roti, and you’ll also find packets of this flour sold in stores in places like Kilmora so you can bring a little bit of the hills back home.

Pahadi raita

A golden-hued raita heavy with the scent of mustard is the perfect accompaniment to any Kumaoni meal. Pahadi raita is a side dish that features wild cucumbers and local mustard seeds, along with mustard oil and chillies, used liberally used to spice up the curd and add a medley of flavours to your meal.

Rhododendron flowers in Uttarakhand. (Photo by Swati Sidhu via Wikimedia Commons)

Buransh

Come springtime, and rhododendron flowers burst into bloom in the mountains. The rhododendron is the state flower of Uttarakhand, and it’s easy to see why. From February to April, the hills are awash in trees laden with glorious red flowers. But the rhododendron is more than just ornamental. Buransh, as it is locally known, is dried, crushed and
pulverized to a pulp to make a delicious and healthy juice packed with antioxidants. You’ll find juice vendors across the hills dispensing glasses of blood red buransh – tart, sweet, refreshing and delicious.

Bhang chutney

Another surprising element of Kumaoni cuisine is the use of bhang or hemp in cooking. Bhang chutney is a tangy, nutty and spicy accompaniment to Kumaoni meals, and widely available across the region. Unlike the drinkable bhang that is made with leaves of the cannabis plant, bhang chutney features hemp seeds (along with coriander and spices) and no psychotropic properties.

Bal mithai

For dessert in Uttarakhand, it’s the ubiquitous bal mithai. You’ll find these sweets in popular tourist towns like Nainital and Bhimtal, and even in smaller shops along mountain roads.

Khoya is roasted until it reaches a chocolatey, fudge-like consistency, and then it is topped with tiny white sugar balls. The result is a chewy, crunchy, and textured sweet unlike anything you’ll taste in other parts of the country.