Mysuru Dasara: What to expect, eat and do

Mysore Palace. (Photo by Bindu Gopal Rao)

What does a palace illuminated with 97,000 bulbs look like? If you would like to see the visual scene for yourself, you need to be in Mysore between now and October 5, 2022, to see the stunning Mysore Palace in all its resplendent glory. After all the Mysore Dasara festivities date to 1610 and it is an event that you must mark in your calendar. We tell you all about what to do, see and eat in Mysore this Dasara.

Festivities Unlimited

The ten-day festivities that end on Vijaya Dashami see the city decked up in all its finery. Mysore with its royal past, is also home to several heritage buildings and all of them are lit in the evening. In fact, most of the roads are also lit completely with serial lights in varied designs and a walk or drive in the evening is a must-do when you are here. The erstwhile royal family continues the traditions from the past and start the festivities with a pooja to the presiding deity Goddess Chamundeshwari at the Chamundi Hills. It is believed that the Goddess killed the demon Mahishasur on Vijaya Dashami, and the day is celebrated to honour her warrior form. The temple located on a hillock is an important location in Mysore especially during these days but do mind the crowds here. Mohamed Farouk, Regional Director South, Ministry of Tourism, Government of India says, "this is an annual event where the local people look forward to celebrating the heritage of the royal city. It is a tradition that has been practiced for centuries and reflects the cultural heritage of the city. There are very few events in the South of the country where the rituals are so meticulously followed at the Mysore Palace."

Regal Repast

The Amba Vilas Palace or Mysore Palace is the place that sees much of the action as the royal family has the Khas Durbar or the Private Durbar. This happens within the Mysore Palace with the titular head of the royal family Yaduveer Krishnadatta Chamaraja Wadiyar ascending the Golden Throne at a pre-defined time at the Durbar Hall. There are many rituals conducted within the palace premises that are out of bounds for the public. However, the main event is the traditional Dasara procession or Jumboo Savari where caparisoned elephants march from the palace to Banni Mantap. The main elephant, Abhimanyu, carries an idol of the Goddess Chamundeshwari on a golden mantap (that is made of 750 kilograms of gold). The elephants are welcomed ceremoniously and reside at the palace for a few weeks before the event. They are also acclimatized to the canon firing at the event. The procession is accompanied by vibrant tableaux, dancers, music bands and more. At Bannimantap, the banni tree (Prosopis spicigera) is worshipped as it is believed that this was the tree used by the Pandavas in Mahabharata to hide their weapons when they had to be incognito for a year. After this the grounds at Bannimantap witness the Panjina Kavayatthu or torch-light parade. Watch out for fireworks, daredevil stunts atop motorcycles and a laser show.

Events Galore

This apart, the Karnataka State Government has several music, dance, folk dance performances as well as flower and doll show, wrestling as well as a food and film festival as part of its lineup. The Yuva (Youth) Dasara is a series of musical concerts performed by youth icons and is an attraction in the Dasara time. The annual Dasara exhibition starts at the Doddakere Maidan opposite the Mysore Palace during this time and continues for around two months. Apart from a variety of shopping and food, there are rides and games for children as well. A key tradition that is part of most homes is to have a display of dolls during the festival. If you would like to see the dolls, a stop at Ramsons Bombe Mane is a great idea. This is where you can see and buy an amazing display of thousands of dolls handmade by artists in clay, Plaster of Paris, paper mesh, metal, wood, terracotta, ceramic, and cloth.

Sights & More

While the Amba Vilas Palace must be on your itinerary, do make pit stops at the Lalitha Mahal Palace (now converted to a hotel), the Jaganmohan Palace Mysore that is an art museum and Jayalakshmi Vilas Palace that houses a folk museum. When you are at the Mysore Palace do not miss the golden throne that is kept on display in the Durbar Hall, as this is on display only for these ten days. Some of the must-see places in the city include Devaraja Market, a local market said to be the oldest in Asia as well as the Brindavan Garden, whose famed musical fountains have been the muse of several film shoot locations. Karanji Lake is a great place to chill amidst nature. Stops at the St. Philomena's Cathedral, one of Asia's tallest churches and the Railway Museum, that will take you back on a nostalgic trip to your childhood are also recommended. An offbeat stop that is great is the Oriental Research Institute, a heritage building that is doing some pioneering work with old Sanskrit manuscripts.

Gastronomy Calling

When in Mysore, it is a must to taste the local food, many of which you will not find elsewhere in the country. In traditional breakfasts, Gayatri Tiffin Room (GTR) in Ramachandra Agrahara is the best bet for your fix of dosa, idli and chow chow bath (a combination of upma and kesari bath). Do stop at Hotel Original Vinayaka Mylari in Nazrabad, to sample a unique Masala Dosa that is filled with a vegetable curry instead of the usual potato filling and is served with a dollop of butter and coconut chutney. Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) now has an outlet in Jayalakshmipuram and is the best place to sample a traditional vegetarian thaali. For new age options, Depth N Green in Gokulam (they make some good vegan fare), The Old House, an Instagram worthy café that serves continental fare and La Uppu at Grand Mercure Mysore are good options to satiate your taste buds. While Mysore is a destination that can be visited through the year, it really comes alive in Dasara, and this is when it has a vibe that is like no other. And if you are planning a trip to this royal city, this is probably the best time to do it.

Fact File

Flight: Nearest airports are at Bengaluru (170 km) and Mysore, Mandakalli (10 km). The Mysore airport sees more flight connections during Dasara.

Rail: The main railway station is 2 km from the city center and has connections to major cities in India.

Road: There are several luxury buses that ply from Bengaluru Airport as well as from Bengaluru City. NH 275 connects Bengaluru and Mysore and there is construction happening currently that can impact travel time.

Stay: Mysore has a variety of hotels from luxury to budget. Check out some of the properties that have a royal connection for a stay that matches the city’s vibe.