Rs 99,999 a kg: What makes Assam's Manohari Gold tea special

Suntok Tea Co. set a production target of 10 kg of Manohari Gold tea this year but could only manage 2.5 kg.

At more than 1.5x the cost of a kilo of silver, Manohari Gold tea is the most expensive tea sold at an Indian tea auction to date.

Silver was trading at Rs61,729 on MCX on December 17.

Of course, we have heard of specialty teas that fetch high prices at special auctions before. These are seldom bound for retail shelves, and sometimes – just sometimes – create a ripple that travels far beyond the small set of tea industry watchers and connoisseurs.

Manohari Gold tea sent out such a ripple earlier this week, when it sold for a record price of Rs 99,999 per kilogram at the Guwahati tea auction - the highest price fetched by a tea in Indian tea auctions.

Indeed, it has been a hot favourite at special auctions since its debut in 2018. In previous years, Manohari Gold tea has sold for Rs 39,100 per kg in 2018, Rs 50,000 in 2019, and Rs 75,000 per kg in 2020.

By comparison, most regular tea varieties go for Rs 100-300 per kg in auctions.

Limited production, no bitterness

What is so special about Manohari Gold tea, then, you ask?

Rajan Lohia, founder and director of Suntok Tea Co., which owns the Manohari tea estate in Dibrugarh, Assam, says a whole lot of things.

"Making Manohari Gold tea is an art, and the cutting and rolling are done manually and no machines are involved," Lohia said.

The tea is made from a special clone, by plucking just the bud early morning – between 5 and 7.30 a.m. Monsoon time –  June and July –  is the best season for Manohari Gold tea, Lohia added.

His company took over the over 100-year-old tea estates six years ago. Manohari Gold tea was developed from the research undertaken by Suntok.

"It tastes different from other teas and is made with just hot water without adding sugar or milk. Even its residue tastes good when you chew it and not bitter like other teas," Lohia said.

Since it is costly, the production is limited to small quantities. This year the company targeted 10 kg but could manage only 2.5 kg of tea. The company's overall tea output, across varieties, this year was 800,000 kg.

Manohari Gold retails online at Rs 2,700 for 20 gm and is only available offline at the company gardens and Guwahati auction centre. "You need 2 gm for a single cup and can make 10 cups out of a pack. We get repeat orders from its customers," Lohia said.

A cup of Manohari Gold tea brewed at home with 2 grams of tea leaves would cost just over Rs270.

The buyer

Expensive teas don’t have regular buyers, and are sold only at special auctions and occasions.

In special auctions held on International Tea Day in June this year, white tea produced from tea buds by tea major Goodricke went for Rs 27,000 per kg at the Guwahati auctions.

In South India, Silver Needle white tea of Nilgiris-based Avataa Tea Co. - from its Billimalai tea estate - went for Rs 16,400 per kg at the 2021 International Tea Day auctions at Coonoor. It is a record price in South India. This tea is also made through special processing after plucking tea buds with more pubescent hair before sunrise.

"The rays of sun could lead to its fermentation. The tea buds are then subjected to processing under controlled temperature in a machine," said Vijaya Sekhar, the production manager of Avataa. Silver Needle is also produced in limited quantities of 5-10 kg.

The company also produces several other specialty teas such as Oolong tea, Long Din green tea and white tea. "These are made from special clones and bush and retain the same quality and taste throughout the year. Hence, they have repeat orders though they are priced above Rs 5,000 per kg in bulk," said Sekhar.

Sujit Patra, secretary of the Indian Tea Association, said that such teas come to auctions occasionally – maybe once a year – and they fetch good price from specific buyers.

"It is not a regular affair. The production needs lot of effort. Special tea bush, quality of planting and season are all important. The production is limited to 5-20 kg," Patra said.