Why you should take a look at Roni Madhvani’s singular Art Deco watch collection

A selection of modern Patek Philippes: uncommon, and with custom dials.

Browsing through Roni Madhvani’s Instagram account (@roni_m_29) is like taking a horological time travel shuttle back to the dazzling 1950s and '60s. The third generation scion of the Madhvani family, which is based in Uganda and runs one of East Africa’s largest diversified private sector conglomerates, focuses on a singular niche: mid-20th century time-only watches from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier, with most of them sporting singular cases, lugs, and dials. Madhvani’s collection also includes asymmetrical Pateks designed by the legendary Geneva-based jeweller, Gilbert Albert.

In an interview with Moneycontrol, Madhvani talks about the genesis and evolution of his collection, his broader interests in art and architecture, and his hospitality projects in Bodhgaya.

It’s a very special Cartier Cintree that I am most fortunate to have, as I designed the dial myself. Usually, Cartier does not entertain such requests and when they do, it is normally restricted to a colour change to the existing dial, numerals, or, at best, a change of the cabochon. Cartier has been very kind to me and I have several other unique pieces in the pipeline which are special and beyond the regular custom pieces.

I started collecting watches over three decades ago. My limited means in the early part dictated preferences such as time-only and other so-called lesser brands. However, a commonality was always design-inspired watches and over time the focus narrowed into the brands I collect (Patek Philippe, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin), a particular time period (1945 to 1965), and a particular genre.

Absolutely! And it is this broader interests that spills over into wristwatches, too. I love Art Deco and what it stands for as a style, and there are certain collectibles from this genre that I collect, including bronze sculptures (focusing on works by Maurice Prost, Raymond Delamarre and Edgar Brandt). I also collect French car mascots from the 1920s and 1930s, pocket watches, and silver items belonging to maharajas, and Indian and African Contemporary art. I think I am a bit of a hoarder!

Two mid-20th century watches from Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin in Madhvani's collection.

I focus on watches made by Patek, Cartier, Audemars, and Vacheron Constantin from a particular era. And I admire these manufactures because they were at their creative best back then in terms of watch design. The prevailing circumstances allowed this to flourish and not be stifled as is the case now. But this doesn’t mean that other brands, including American ones, didn’t excel and produce timepieces with memorable designs. I see design-inspired wrist watches as a form of art that one can wear on one’s wrist and admire at all times.

A special Tank Cintree— with a dial designed by Madhvani.

I agree. The problem with the large brands of today is that creativity is totally snuffed out, as those responsible at the top are unwilling to take risks from a personal or corporate standpoint. Plus, from a commercial standpoint, launching a new line is extremely costly.

Most of the watches I have are between 50 to 70 years old, and have survived without having to be regularly serviced. I think we are fed false information that all watches need to be serviced every two or three years, as this is a good way for brands to boost their revenue. If you followed convention, as watchmakers claim you should, you would very nearly be able to buy a new watch each time you service a few watches as per their recommended guidelines. However, I do appreciate that in certain contexts such as in tropical climates, watches do require more care and attention.

Our family’s interests in hospitality in India are based on a model in which we have properties at key religious destinations that offer a five-star experience. Our properties, which are managed by the Sarovar Hotels, have suffered in the last two years. Tirupati has picked up recently, but Bodhgaya, which we completed and opened early last year, continues to suffer due to Covid-19 related restrictions and lack of international visitors. I think Covid is here to stay for the foreseeable future and the key to travel will be controlling Covid. That can happen only by achieving critical mass in terms of vaccinations.

The Madhvani Group has hospitality interests in Bodhgaya (above) and Tirupati, among other places, in India.