Off the Menu: Bangladesh halts exports of Padma Hilsa ahead of Durga Puja, leaving fish lovers in Kolkata disappointed

From 2012 to 2018, hilsa exports were banned due to disputes over the Teesta River water-sharing agreement. The result was a sharp rise in prices and even some smuggling of the fish across the porous India-Bangladesh border

With just a month left for Durga Puja, a piece of news from Bangladesh has caught the attention of fish lovers in Kolkata: there will be no Padma Hilsa on the plates this year. Farida Akhtar, an advisor to the Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock of Bangladesh's interim government, announced that the export of Hilsa to India has been halted for this festive season, as reported by various Bangladeshi media outlets.

Beloved tradition under threat

For years, Bengalis in India have eagerly awaited the arrival of Padma Hilsa from Bangladesh during the Puja season. This has been a tradition largely nurtured by former Bangladeshi Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina, who allowed Hilsa exports as a goodwill gesture, between August and October every year. However, recent political turmoil in Bangladesh, including Hasina's ousting, has led to a new government under Muhammad Yunus. This interim administration has decided to prioritize domestic demand for Hilsa, especially for lower-income households, which has meant putting a stop to exports to India. Despite these efforts, a senior Bangladeshi journalist revealed to The Telegraph that prices haven't dropped significantly, with 1 kg of Hilsa still selling for around Tk 1,800 to Tk 1,900.

Not the first time

But this isn’t the first time such a ban has been imposed. From 2012 to 2018, Hilsa exports were banned due to disputes over the Teesta River water-sharing agreement. The result was a sharp rise in prices and even some smuggling of fish across the porous India-Bangladesh border. Farida Akhtar, possibly hinting at this smuggling issue, mentioned that any attempts at illegal exports will be heavily monitored and prevented.

In 2020, Sheikh Hasina had allowed 500 tonnes of Hilsa to be exported to India, a gesture that continued until last year when nearly 3,950 tonnes were shipped through the Petrapole landport just before Durga Puja.

This year, though, the outlook is bleak.

While some have pointed to political factors—such as anti-India sentiment growing after Hasina's fall—the government has cited environmental challenges and a lower-than-expected Hilsa harvest as key reasons for the export ban. Although the seasonal ban on Hilsa fishing was lifted in August, the catch has not met expectations, pushing the interim government to hit the "pause button" on exports.

Impact on Kolkata’s fish market

In Kolkata, three main types of Hilsa are popular: the more affordable Burmese Hilsa from Myanmar, the Kolaghat variety from southern West Bengal, and the highly sought-after Padma Hilsa from Bangladesh.

For Kolkata’s fish traders, this decision has been a blow. Many had hoped to stock up on the prized Padma Hilsa, but now they will have to rely on imports from Myanmar and Odisha, which are already 30 percent higher in price than last year, with further increases expected due to the unavailability of the Bangladeshi variety. Currently, Bangladeshi Hilsa weighing over a kilogram sells for about Rs 2,200 per kg, and prices are expected to soar in its absence.

For now, the ban has dampened the mood of many traders and consumers. Despite hopes that the pause might be lifted if the harvest improves, as per a source in the interim government, there is no certainty whether the iconic Padma Hilsa will reach Bengali plates this Puja season.