Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are celebrated for their display of craftsmanship in unique designs. Over the years, they have not only given a new lease of life to dying craft techniques but also transformed them into entirely new forms of beauty.
As the couture house enters its fortieth year, the designer duo have taken a total departure from the trends they had set before, only to set new ones in an entirely different manner.
At Arts Mumbai, they unveiled creations showcasing their quintessential maximal magic, with hand-detailing and impeccable tailoring dominating the designs for the show. Additionally, they reinvented pure silks and satins, Bandhanis, Ajrakhs, Brocades, South Indian sarees, and more, which have always been a part of their legacy.
For the night, Tabu turned showstopper wearing black parallel trousers and a matching cowl-neck tunic adorned with silver hand embroidery. The ensemble was crowned with a new edition of the maximal architectural coat, reinvented with scintillating crystal work and thousands of sequins hand-embroidered on a black base. The outfit featured an abundance of pure chamois satin and crepe de chine, fusing luxury and fantasy with fine craftsmanship.
Tabu remarked, "I have always worn Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla for my most special occasions, and I am so glad to call them my friends. They are masters of making a woman feel beautiful. The garments for this show were supremely breathtaking and I've never before seen such a fabulous interpretation of traditional crafts reimagined with a surreal twist."
Inspired by the celebration at the end of 'A Thousand and One Nights', the new collection is a glittering celebration of a night and of life, where all rules are broken and all hearts are open. Distinctions disappear and royals and aristocrats celebrate with men and ladies of the night.
Five collections form the chapters of this nocturnal fantasy include:
The 'Divine Dancers' glittering in jewel tones and the shimmer of Gota, become the ecstatic daughters of movement and rhythm.
‘The Muses', ablaze in reds and oranges, embody modern divinity through sculpted drapes and handcrafted mastery. They also carry whips reinvented as couture.
'The Devotees', adorned in Zardozi, tissue and silk, become living offerings of worship in Madras checks
'The Seductresses', fierce and commanding, redefine power through bold silhouettes and crystal embellishments, in the form of the recently launched 'Raj' collection.
The 'People of the Street' shine in a dark romance of blacks, greys and mocha. They are dreamers dressed in statement blouses, moving in oxidised chains, Gota roses and fabric-on-fabric fantasy - paired with couture embellishments handcrafted as jewellery.
And finally, 'The Royals', sovereign in Banarasi and Zardozi, draped in hues of pink, mustard, navy, and aubergine, become the empresses of the night.
Complementing collections of menswear amplify the drama for each range, with rich coloured brocades alongside Abu Sandeep's iconic 'Crushed Silk' appearing in jewel tones. Decadent mirror-work sparkles on beige golds, while elongated earthy toned safas scintillate with Gota stripes. The garments also include bejewelled waist coats, voluminous harems, and turquoise infused embroidery paired with other colourful gemstones.
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