Mumbai restaurant: Art deco meets the colours and flavours of India at Bombay Brasserie

Bombay Brasserie interiors, Colaba, Mumbai.

There’s a canopy of colourful kites dangling a few feet above our heads, a lighting feature that immediately brings to mind images of the vibrant harvest season in the country. In one corner, a textile wall showcases the craft of diverse Indian handwoven fabrics. Yet another corner pays a tribute to the famous dabbawalas of Mumbai — ancient tin tiffins that the hardworking men are associated with. In more ways than one, the recently-opened Bombay Brasserie at Dhanraj Mahal in Colaba provides a peek into the colours and flavours of India.

Bombay Brasserie, Colaba, Mumbai.

Take the building it is housed in, for instance. The imposing and aesthetically-pleasing red structure known as Dhanraj Mahal embodies the Art Deco style which emerged in Paris during the 1900s. Says Shikha Nath, culinary director at Bombay Brasserie, “This edifice boasts a captivating past. Originally erected in the 1930s, it served as the opulent palace of the Raja Dhanrajgir of Hyderabad and was, at the time, the most massive and expensive structure in Mumbai.”

Bombay Brasserie, Colaba.

Bombay Brasserie occupies two-levels of Dhanraj Mahal which is known to be the largest architectural commission in Bombay in 1935. It’s no wonder then that the restaurant seeks and finds inspiration from the many nooks and corners of one of the most beautiful Art Deco buildings of its time. Even the wall accompanying the winding staircase leading to the first floor has picture frames that represent India’s rich history through paintings, maps and recipe books.

Aam Papad Paneer at Bombay Brasserie, Colaba.

Thankfully, the food and bar menu are in cohesion with the nostalgia that the space hopes to evoke, with ingredients sourced from the nooks and corners of the country. Says Nath, “The idea is to offer a new immersive experience set amid a unique design that blends Bombay’s iconic Art Deco style with the story of India’s rich cultural heritage of art, textiles, craft, artisans and vibrant cultures taking you on an armchair adventure through the country’s diverse cultural landscape.”

The food spread at Bombay Brasserie, Colaba.

We sip on the delicately-flavoured Memsaab’s Favourite Pink Gin that harks back to the time of the British Raj and makes for a great afternoon drink. The server brings a portion of the Aam Papad Paneer — creamy paneer that soaks up the khatta-meetha taste of the Amritsari spices and lime. The Street Fried Chicken is crisp but a bit on the bland side until you dunk it into the Byadgi chilli honey dip. The heartwarming Surat Street Khausa that follows next is a wholesome bowl that marries the flavours of India and Burma. The crushed papdi adds the much-needed crunch to the noodles and coconut milk dish and we sprinkle the garnish generously on top.

Surat Street Khausa at Bombay Brasserie, Colaba.

The meal comes to an end with a decadent Chocolate Rocky Road which as the name suggests, has different textures in the form of chocolate mousse and brownie with vanilla ice cream and a crunchy peanut crumble. For those who prefer Indian sweets, we suggest the Ras-E-Aam — juicy rasgullas drenched with creamy rabdi and sweet aamras. Just what this Mumbai heat calls for.